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Old 12-11-2009, 11:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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How to test your alternator and rectifier

In order to successfully test your charging system output you need to be able to put a load on it. According to the Triumph manual you should use a 1 ohm resistor. They show how to construct one, but a simpler solution is to buy one from Nebraska surplus. http://www.surplussales.com/resistor...nd/WW05-1.html
The one I bought is made by Milwaukee and costs around 25 dollars. You need one that can handle at least 200 watts, the one I bought is rated at 240. Attach to each terminal a double set of leads. The white set uses female bullet connectors to connect to the alternator leads. Red set uses some sort of terminal to connect your multi-meter. This is a picture of how I rigged mine. Attach the resister to some sort of stand so air can circulate around it.


Disconnect the two alternator leads where they come out of the primary case and plug them into the two white leads. Connect your multi-meter to the other. Set the meter on 10 volts AC (remember its AC current coming out of the alternator). Start the bike and check the reading. A healthy alternator should be putting out 9 volts.

If thats okay, next check the output at the rectifier. Rig up a jumper with a slide on connector. Connect this to the middle terminal on the side of the rectifier. Connect the other end to one of the white wires. Connect the red wire on that terminal to the negative lead of the multi-meter. Connect the other red lead to the positive multi-meter lead. Ground the corresponding white lead on that terminal to the bike frame. Set the multi-meter on 10 volts DC this time (remember the rectifier converts AC out of the alternator to DC going to the battery). Start the bike again and you should be reading 7.5 volts.

Before I made these tests I was ready to replace the alternator on my bike. It checked out fine but the rectifier proved to be duff. Saved myself about 250 bucks.
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Old 12-13-2009, 03:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This rig can also be used to load test your battery. Make some jumpers so you can attach the white leads to the battery posts. Connect red leads to voltmeter same polarity as battery terminals. Connect to battery for 15 seconds. Voltage will drop but should stay above 9.5 volts if battery is healthy.
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Old 07-03-2010, 01:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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A quicker way to test your stator is firstly to measure it's resistance, it should be about 0.5 ohm.

Measuring low resistance is tricky with a digital multimeter. First measure the resistance of your meter leads connected together (say a reading of 2.4 ohm) then measure your stator (should now read around 2.9 ohms.) Also measure the resistance between a lead and ground. It should be infinite resistance.

If the resistance is OK then with the stator wires disconnected measure their output at 3000 rpm (connect your meter between any two leads in turn if a three wire three-phase stator.) It should be around 32v AC.

If your stator meets these tests it is OK and charging problems lay elsewhere.

Derry.
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Old 07-21-2010, 08:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote Derry:
"If your stator meets these tests it is OK and charging problems lay elsewhere."

I know I am a pain Derry but No, not really. Some faults are only detectable with a load test. If it passed all of your tests you wouldn't be testing it to begin with.
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Here's a link to some testing I did earlier

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...1ZmQ4&hl=en_GB
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