Triumphrat

crazywelder72 · 05-31-2009, 05:39 PM

I have a 78 T-140 and i have been learning about the whole wet-sumping thing.

As everyone knows (and i am learning) these bikes usually flood the sump when they sit for a while (even a few days sometimes) as the oil sneaks by the ball seats in the pump and gravity feeds back into the bottom of the motor.

i have gotten into the habit of draining the sump most of the time before i ride unless i want to watch the bike blow smoke out the left pipe for 5 minutes at start up. sometimes i have drained 12 oz of oil out.

my question is has anyone tried to modify their drain plug to have a type of pet-cock on it to facilitate draining the sump easier than pulling out the plug?

it doesn't seem to difficult to take a plug an weld a small 90 deg stem on it, fit it with a Swage-lock fitting then to a small but good petcock...

any thoughts ?????

REG · 05-31-2009, 06:20 PM

have seen anti wet sump valves advertised. they look like a non-return valve.

tap set up mite be a bugger when you need a fast getaway

meatwagon · 06-01-2009, 01:57 PM

Wet sumping is usually not an issue with Triumphs in general and OIF bikes in specific...of course there are always exceptions.Some experts advise against removing the sump drain plug because it can introduce grit straight to the oil pump,CAUSING wet sumping...

sounds like its time for you to fix the problem(clean /rebuild the oil pump) instead of the symptom (excess oil in the sump).good luck

crazywelder72 · 06-01-2009, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meatwagon

sounds like its time for you to fix the problem(clean /rebuild the oil pump) instead of the symptom (excess oil in the sump).good luck

I did remove, strip, re-inspect, and re-install the oil pump. I blew out all the oil passage I could with the pump removed. I doubble and tripple checked the oil pump and made sure the balls were seating properly and didnt stick prior to reinstalling it.

who knows what position the pump is in when the bike is not running? prehaps the pistons are all the way extended and there is just enough to let it weep by?

i wasnt thinking about leaving the sump plug out, just trying to think of a faster/easier way to drain the sump with less mess. its always a bitch at the last th read or two when the oil starts to flood over the bolt/ all over your hand.

GrandPaulZ · 06-02-2009, 12:35 PM

You will find matching the thread to be the biggest hurdle, but perhaps one of those finger taps that are installed on air tanks for compressors, that allow you to drain off the condensate.

crazywelder72 · 06-02-2009, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GrandPaulZ

You will find matching the thread to be the biggest hurdle, but perhaps one of those finger taps that are installed on air tanks for compressors, that allow you to drain off the condensate.

i was thinking mor along the lines of modifing the existing plug so i didnt have to re-invent the wheel so to say.

i figure the origional plug could be drilled out and a 90 deg nipple could be welded to it, then a mini ball valve petcoch added to that. when you need to drain the sump, just slip on a piece of tubing and open the petcoch and drain it off into a container.

sounds easy to me anyways? i think the hardest part would to be to find a petcoch that is small enofigh to do what i want but not be a cheap piece of crap.

tangomike · 06-10-2009, 08:04 PM

Damn, I never remember to turn off(or on when I am riding) my gas petcocks. Imagine if you ever forgot to turn that off before your ride??

TangoMike

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazywelder72

i was thinking mor along the lines of modifing the existing plug so i didnt have to re-invent the wheel so to say.

i figure the origional plug could be drilled out and a 90 deg nipple could be welded to it, then a mini ball valve petcoch added to that. when you need to drain the sump, just slip on a piece of tubing and open the petcoch and drain it off into a container.

sounds easy to me anyways? i think the hardest part would to be to find a petcoch that is small enofigh to do what i want but not be a cheap piece of crap.

crazywelder72 · 06-10-2009, 10:58 PM

funny tangomike...

but i figure you leave it closed all the time, however before you ride you could crack the petcock and drain the sump for a minute then obviously close it. that way you dont need a socket and ratchet to pull the plug do train it.

Toddt160 · 06-11-2009, 09:05 AM

Don't fit a petcock.
Triumph twins should not wet sump unless left for a very long time- (months, years even) This issue gets far too much press due to other bikes that do wet sump (Harleys, Nortons, BSA's etc) These other bikes all use gear pumps and oil can trickle past the gears once wear sets in.
The Triumph uses a plunger pump and should not wet sump unless a ball valve is sticking or it is totally worn out. Try cleaning the balls and seats out.
Usually a good clean is all that is needed. Check that the spring is the right length as well. Some bikes had alloy pump bodies which are crap. Get a brass one! The good news is that even if your pump is scrap a new can be had for about $150.00. Cheap insurance, really.
Price an oil pump for any other bike and the Triumph is a bargain..

Make sure the feed pipe is actually connected to the feed. It is possible to connect the pipes backward and the scavange pump is larger than the feed, resulting in flooding.
Finally, remove the domed nut on the front of the timing cover, this the pressure relief valve. If it sticks or the spring has lost it's tension oil will bypass the crankshaft and dump directly in to the sump, making a lot of work for the scavenege pump. A failed or hardened oil seal in the timing cover (oil feed to the crank) might do the same, but this is not very common.

Hopefully this helps, Todd

jimmy bush · 06-11-2009, 02:15 PM

I second that motion Toddt160!