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Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler.

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Old 10-18-2008, 07:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
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what's the best way to remove a bolt if the head snapped off?

i was a dumbass and dropped my bike, fairly minimal damage, but the right clip-on took most of the fall, and as a result the head of the positioning bolt that secures the clip-on to the underside of the tope yoke/triple tree sheared off, leaving the thread in the hole.

is there a way to remove the thread from the hole short of drilling it out and re-threading the hole? maybe drilling a hole in the bolt and somehow backing it out?

insurance is covering the damage (pipes, headers, footpeg, alternator cover (mine are already polished and may just polish the scrathces out),front brake and assembly, cable snapped, CRG bar end wiped out), and i plan on doing the repairs myself. i am guessing they will just replace the tope yoke, but if i can get the bolt out it will be fine and i can save the cost of the top yoke. if it has to be drilled and rethreadded i will just replace the whole top yoke.

any suggestions are appreciated! thanks in advance!
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Last edited by sbpark; 10-18-2008 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 10-18-2008, 07:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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there are all manner of easy outs, etc, but I haven't had good luck with them. I've taken the last 2 problems I've had to the machine shop down the street from my place and they've removed them for like $20.
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Old 10-18-2008, 08:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you do try to use an easy out yourself one trick is to get a reverse twist drill bit & a reversing drill motor. As often as not the drill bit will catch & turn the bolt out itself. If it doesn't you had to have a hole drilled anyway to use the easy out so you might as well try it. I have had that work numerous times. Bob.
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Old 10-19-2008, 07:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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easyouts work good but they're brittle...the danger being your gorilla arm gets anxious instead of the great big brain exercising patience. if you break an easy out it's time for the mini needle nose cause other than breaking it up in situ and pulling it out in pieces your life just got complicated.

when a bolt tightens at the head, chances are 50-50 good that when the head breaks off the thread is still loose and an easy turn out. for a snug one, heat to red will expand and smoosch any rust or crap in the threads and when cool again the tolerances are back to loose.

there's also a trick for removing froze nipple threads from a cast boiler section by grinding (drilling/cutting torch) from the inside but it takes a steady hand not to involve the threads...when you have it paper thin, you simply collapse it to the inside and a few taps to release the rest of the threads and it releases and turns right out

point is most of the time you can save the female thread with care, patience, and surgical skill. any drilling in these situations is centerpunched accurately and clamped in a drill press for accurate results...those hand held eyeballed holes end up in slop.

if you get the hole right, the female thread at worst gets chased with a tap...lots of times that isn't even necessary...it's all about the accurate/centered drilled hole

or run down to the store and buy your new parts if the mountain's too high.
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Old 10-19-2008, 07:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Or just take it to a machine shop like Sweat said. That's a good approach if you don't have a drill press, and haven't done it before.
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Old 10-19-2008, 11:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbpark View Post
i was a dumbass and dropped my bike, fairly minimal damage, but the right clip-on took most of the fall, and as a result the head of the positioning bolt that secures the clip-on to the underside of the tope yoke/triple tree sheared off, leaving the thread in the hole.

is there a way to remove the thread from the hole short of drilling it out and re-threading the hole? maybe drilling a hole in the bolt and somehow backing it out?

insurance is covering the damage (pipes, headers, footpeg, alternator cover (mine are already polished and may just polish the scrathces out),front brake and assembly, cable snapped, CRG bar end wiped out), and i plan on doing the repairs myself. i am guessing they will just replace the tope yoke, but if i can get the bolt out it will be fine and i can save the cost of the top yoke. if it has to be drilled and rethreadded i will just replace the whole top yoke.

any suggestions are appreciated! thanks in advance!
SB/sorry about your mishap. Generally if you are able to get at the bolt with some ease, it's a fairly simple process to extract the broken bolt. Just take the yoke off. Simple tools are use such as an electric drill, the right size drill bit, a center punch and an extractor. If you lack the extractor it can be purchased at any hardware store as well as any cobalt drill bit. The bolt will come out easily because all the pressure and tension was held by the head. If it's gone, then it's a piece of cake to get it out. No real need to go to a machinest. If you decide to do it yourself then PM me and I'll be happy to walk you throught it with written and verbal instructions. Good luck with the repair, I wish you well!

Cheers

Jeff:

Last edited by Skull Crusher; 10-19-2008 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 10-19-2008, 04:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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left hand drill bit is the first step ,then a easy out .A good trick to get drill started in center of bolt if bolt is broken off in hole is use a drill that fits the hole close and just spot drill just alittle to get a center started in the bolt.
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Old 10-19-2008, 09:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Machine a groove in it with a Dremel - then use a good fitting screwdriver. An extractor works sometimes but it tends to expand the remaining piece of the bolt, thus jamming it even more..

Thieu.
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Old 10-19-2008, 09:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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That works quire well greyplague, I've removed a few broken bolts that way - although sometimes it can be difficult if the bolt is sub flush to the surface.

Mikeinvas spot facing technique works well, I've done that many times.

I've never had any luck with easy outs. Heat can be good, depending on the situation, but don't be afraid to go to a local machine shop if you're unsure. They can use an end mill to take care of the sucker if needs be, then pick the remnants of the old thread out. I've done that too, but I don't have a milling machine anymore - although you can use a drill press for that too.

Some good tips on this thread, but if you're unsure, take it to a shop.
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Old 10-20-2008, 07:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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easy outs

I've used easy outs to save my bacon a few times.

Yep they are quite brittle so use the biggest you can get in the screw.

I heated up the alloy component that the bolt was in with a hot air gun, it seemed to help, alloy expands more than the steel bolt.

Good luck
Clive
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