Triumphrat

NorthVancpF · 10-13-2008, 01:14 AM

It worked! I read a few posts on this site re: installing progressive springs by yourself, and it worked out great.
I had just had my fork oil changed at the 40k scheduled maintenance, so I installed the springs using the old "remove handlebars, lay them on your tank, leave forks in place" method. Used my centre stand, then some 2x4s to lift the frame so the front tire came off the ground. Used a socket to remove the fork top nuts, removed the spacer, washer, and the old limp springs using a customized coat hanger. Then installed the new Hagon progressive springs with the tight wind up, and that's it!
I noticed that the new Hagon springs are slightly longer than the stock ones, but the stock spacer still fits.
I like that these bikes are easy enough for the owner to do some of the maintenance and mods. I like that this site helps you to know what you can and can not tackle on your own, in your own garage. Thanks Triumph tech knowledge guys.

357Bob · 10-13-2008, 02:01 AM

I figured without the oil change it would be piece of cake. I have been wanting to do this too but I will remove my tank first. I wonder if anyone has tried using a pump to remove the old oil. I may try that. But now the real question is how do you like it? Give it a week or 2 & let me know. I think everyone but you & I have done this. Check your tire pressures too. 40K. Man I thought my trouble free 20K was alot. Bike stills seems to be getting better. Good luck. Bob.

Ventura · 10-13-2008, 03:39 AM

To get the most out of this mod I'd REALLY recommend paying a little extra and installing the Thruxton pre-load adjusters
at the same time as fitting the new springs.

I did it recently and detailed it here:

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tech...the-scram.html

It really does make a huge difference to be able to get some adjustability in the front end and allow for differences in rider weight, payload and riding conditions.

Altho I installed these on my Scrambler its all just as relevent to the Bonnie and T-100 too.

V.

357Bob · 10-13-2008, 08:25 AM

Hmmm. Adustable front forks. Makes a guy wonder what drilling out the fork cap bolts & adding some air pressure fittings might do. Air adjustable forks? A friend of mine did that to a CB750 back in the 70's. But the Truxton adjusters look good too. Bob.

NorthVancpF · 10-13-2008, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 357Bob

I figured without the oil change it would be piece of cake. I have been wanting to do this too but I will remove my tank first. I wonder if anyone has tried using a pump to remove the old oil. I may try that. But now the real question is how do you like it? Give it a week or 2 & let me know. I think everyone but you & I have done this. Check your tire pressures too. 40K. Man I thought my trouble free 20K was alot. Bike stills seems to be getting better. Good luck. Bob.

You know what, actually the handlebars don't lay very nicely on the tank anyway. The cables get in the way. I ended up covering the tank and gauges with towels and laid the bars on the gauge cluster.

I'll also replaced the rear shocks w/ Hagon classics, so it's Hagon all the way around. I like the classic look of the Hagons.

I'm 205lbs / 6'3", and was noticing sort of a 'pogo' affect at 90 or 100k speeds. Once I changed the fork oil and the rears I've noticed quite a difference. Hopefully the new front springs will only improve the ride.

Also, I mis-typed re: the milage. It was actually a 30k maintenance, the bike is at 28.5k. But going strong. It's an '05 T-100.

The adjustable Truxton caps look like a good idea. I read they were worth a bunch of money though?

johnyC · 10-13-2008, 01:16 PM

northvan,

If you want to experiment with preload cheaply, you can use 1 1/8" 'aheadset' spacers, available from any good bicycle shop. I footered about with preload on my bike with them:

NorthVancpF · 10-13-2008, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnyC

northvan,

If you want to experiment with preload cheaply, you can use 1 1/8" 'aheadset' spacers, available from any good bicycle shop. I footered about with preload on my bike with them:

Thanks Johny. Good idea. I'll try out the stock washer for awhile and then change if need be. May be awhile. Mid October in Vancouver... the rains have come. No problem, the sun will come out soon, in like, April?

357Bob · 10-13-2008, 03:18 PM

It would seem to me that the spacers will only make the static point on the sliders be in a different place when the bike is setting loaded. The ride & all should be the same. Just the bike will set higher or lower in the tubes. The thicker the spacer, the longer the travel. That could change fork angle some but not much. The only way preload will work is if the forks are at their very most top position against the stops. You can do much the same thing by sliding the tubes up in the triple trees. Spacers would give the forks more travel. At least that is what I think, therefore I am probably wrong. Bob.

propforward · 10-13-2008, 10:28 PM

For anyone wanting to change the fork oil - it is REALLY easy to remove the front forks. It may look drastic at first, but it is no more difficult than removing the tank and handlebars to be honest, and allows you to accurately measure the fork oil level. If your fork oil has been in for a while, I really recommend changing it when you upgrade the springs.

Venturas idea of the preload adjusters from the thrux.....

:

Just my two penn'orth.

Ventura · 10-14-2008, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 357Bob

......At least that is what I think, therefore I am probably wrong. Bob.

You're correct Bob, in that your probably not quite correct!!

The spacers (and the pre-load adjusters for that matter) adjust the compression of the spring in its unloaded (fully extended) condition.

This not only effects the amount that the suspension compresses when you sit on the bike, ride over bumps and when applying brakes, but also effects how the forks extend when riding over a dip.

I am by no means a suspension guru and these forks are far from hi-tech, but the "ride and all" is in fact altered greatly as this pre compression is adjusted to compensate for not only the weight of the bike but also the weight of you, your gear and your payload (not a nice way to refer to the wife if she's pillion, but you know what I mean!!)

Sliding the forks thro the clamps does change the geometry of the bike and effects rate of turn-in etc, but it doesnt alter the amount of "bounce" in the springs.

The rake/trail and front ride height is slightly altered as the pre-load is adjusted, but (in my case) this was by 12mm between pogo-stick performance and optimum setting.
The front now therefore sits 12mm higher, which I could compensate for by dropping the yolks down the forks by the same amount.
I havent as Im quite happy with the present result.

V.