Triumphrat

McBike

I have a 2007 T100 and would like to position the pedal to be lower than it presently is. I thought that it would be a simple matter of adjusting the clevis on the threaded rod. The Haynes manual suggests that the adjustment is there to keep the clevis at a fixed position. If so, can the pedal be re-positioned or must it always remain at the stock setting?

Thanks
Mike

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2007 Black / Red T100 AI removed, Hella H4 "E" Class Headlight, Feked Toga style mufflers 118 mains 40 pilot 2 3/4 turns out, Dual Star heated grip kit.
First Bike: 1966 Yamaha YL1 Twin Jet
The older I get, the faster I went.

propforward

There is a nut either side if the bracket that holds the clevis pin. You can adjust the bracket up and down a fair bit, which translates to significant change of the brake pedal position. To lower the pedal a lot you may have to trim a 1/4" off the end of the brake rod.

Just make sue that the brake pedal doesn't interfere with anything after your adjustment. You don't want to find that you can't use the brake because the pedal has become obstructed - which it can be once the position is adjusted enough.

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Rule 1: Cardio

Rustic Road Progress

McBike

Thanks, that's what I originally thought. I got confused reading the Haynes manual because it stated that the clevis needs to be 200.6mm from the lower bolt on the master cylinder.

Mike

__________________
2007 Black / Red T100 AI removed, Hella H4 "E" Class Headlight, Feked Toga style mufflers 118 mains 40 pilot 2 3/4 turns out, Dual Star heated grip kit.
First Bike: 1966 Yamaha YL1 Twin Jet
The older I get, the faster I went.

RedBird

It is a very easy adjustment--once you can get at the adjusting part. I had to remove the right foot peg in order to get to mine. If you have to remove the right foot peg, you will spend more time than you would think because a lot comes with the right foot peg mounting bracket.

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Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.

propforward

That's true - I forgot that bit. It's not hard, just a fair few things to deal with as Redbird says.

__________________
Rule 1: Cardio

Rustic Road Progress

nick_t

yeah, you've got to remove the foot peg. takes a little while, but is not hard at all.

be sure to get on the bike and make sure the pedal is in the right position for you before re-attaching the peg.

good luck.
nick

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"Each day is a journey, and the journey itself home."
-- Matsuo Basho

06 Bonneville T100 (AI removed, snorkel IN, DualStar hotgrips, stock otherwise)

McBike

Thanks for all the info. Poor design putting an
adjustment like that where you can't get at it.
Must have been the same guy that said don't
put drain screws on the bottom of each fork leg.

Thanks Again
Mike

__________________
2007 Black / Red T100 AI removed, Hella H4 "E" Class Headlight, Feked Toga style mufflers 118 mains 40 pilot 2 3/4 turns out, Dual Star heated grip kit.
First Bike: 1966 Yamaha YL1 Twin Jet
The older I get, the faster I went.