Triumphrat

TOMKRILL · 07-19-2008, 01:22 PM

I had my valves adjusted at the 12K service (790cc '04 Speedmaster- stock except for pipes). I told the mechanic to go to the looser side vs the tighter side of the equation. I blame this thinking on owning air cooled VW beetles in my youth, and if you didn't do the valves on those they would get tight and then crap would get behind the valves causing the usual valve job etc. So I always liked the valves to be loud and "klackity" at idle and a little louder when cold- I like the sound of the space between 8 cam lobes and 8 valves with nobody out of tune-like a extra loud one or two. One of the tales I have heard is that the 12K valve adjustment is the most important and then you really don't need to worry about the valves again?? I use the best oil and filter money can buy and all service work is done on time and on schedule. I started doing my own service work a month ago when the warranty ran out. What does anyone think of valve adjustment every 12-13K or if the engine is clattering well and everything is running well, can you skip it? I never did it myself and it seems pretty straight forward except for the shims and getting the ones you need if you need them.
What do you Technical Wizzards think?

HOOPLA · 07-19-2008, 04:21 PM

You'll get all kinds of answers to this question. This forum has good info on this subject do a search and review what is said on how too's. I do my own valves, the hardest part was breaking loose the cap bolts. It's a torx bolt and good thing , cause those bolts were locked!

I believe the correct gap is very important in that it directly effects your cam profile. Too much gap and the lift is reduced and the open time is also reduced. This will effectively reduce motor performance. It will breath less. The better your motor breathes, the more power it can make.

Hoopla

TOMKRILL · 07-19-2008, 06:25 PM

HOOPLA,

I agree and you are correct!
And believe me, I am not one to nickel and dime. If my toys need something they get it and the cost is not the primary question.
What I am saying is if the motor gets effected and breaths less, how much we talking here? I have 65 horse power- will I have 15.0 horsepower less, or 1.50 horsepower less?
I base a lot of decisions on the modern synthetic and non synthetic oils. I have a 21 year old Toyota 4 cyl, I am the second owner. It has 165,000 miles on it and in the 7 years I have owned it, I have done nothing but normal care. It runs like new! When I was in the gas station business the best oil available was like 10W30 API SE. Now they have API ratings that go off the map so they changed the ratings

The motors never have a chance to wear out!!

CAPTDON · 07-19-2008, 09:13 PM

These things are not quiet!! If I dont hear a steady clak- clak then I assume all is ok? I still have a hard time w/ this valves will tighten up thing? I will (if no clak) check compression on the engine. IF the valves got tighter- than it will show on a compression test! If all OK there- then I will go another year & re check. Buds BA had a steady clak saying it was time for some new shims on the lft exhaust side. In my 40 yrs+ - I have never had a valve get tighter w/ wear! Bikes or cars. I wont take my nice tight, dry valve cover off unless I have to!

TOMKRILL · 07-21-2008, 08:06 AM

CAPTDON:

I like the suggestions. Maybe I was wrong about the valves getting tighter on old VW's. I like the idea of the compression test; easy to do and can tell you a lot of information.