Triumphrat

eurochien

Hi all, I've bought the appropriate oil, am getting ready to do this but I'm wondering if I need to change the oil filter as standard procedure. My 06 T100 has about 8500 miles on it and it has had 2 dealer oil changes. The other thing that's got me a bit worried is that the oil tank seems to be quite empty (can't really see a level though the window). There are never any traces on the ground where the bike is parked, but looking under the oil tank area there's definitely some gunk. Am I better off taking to the dealer (not friendly, + a pain in the *** to get there, wait around, etc. you all know the drill). Thanks for any pointers.

propforward

The oil should be half way up the window when the bike is upright on a level surface. Doesn't really matter whether it's on the centre stand or on both wheels.

You should not be checking the oil with it on the sidestand - because you won't see the oil level.

Make sure the gunk you see isn't just chain lube running down from under the sprocket cover. Mine does that, it looks horrific, but it's just flung off chain lube. If that's what it is it'll be all sticky.

And - yes. Replace the filter every oil change. Fill the filter with oil, and smear oil on the filter seal before screwing in place.

Hope that all helps! Have a good one.

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menzies

Propforward is spot on, change that filter!!!!!!!!!

MorganB

How important is it really to pre-fill the filter? I just did my first oil change and forgot to do this. Does the filter need to be "primed" in order for oil to flow through it or something? I've never had to pre-fill any filter in the past, and never had any problems.... maybe there's something different about Triumph's oil-pump?

propforward

I don't think it's actually that critical - I didn't do it last time I did a change, and there were no problems. Theres enough oil in various catch pockets that everyhthings OK. Just give it some time at low revs to circulate and prime before going for a ride. I like the idea of priming the filter so that you're getting oil everywhere as soon as possible, so I do it that way now.

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RedBird

eurochien,

I would suggest you purchase a filter wrench--there's very little room around the filter to get hold of it. I decide what brand filter I am going to use and then buy a filter wrench to fit it.

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Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.

bonza

you maybe looking at the oil fill window when the bike is on the side stand.
move it so it's standing vertical and you should be able to see the oil slosh into the window.

Also, are you sure it isn't overfull and covering the window entirely?

if you are going to change the oil, do yourself and the bike a favour and change the filter. and to make it so much easier, get a filter wrench.

prefilling the filter is good practice. however, it is not mandatory and wont damage the engine if you forgot to prefill it.

see the sticky regarding equivalent oil filters.

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2008 Black and White T100 Bonnie. AI removed, Bafflectomy, Triumph saddle bags sometimes
"Dont you throw those bloody spears at me!", Michael Caine.. Zulu

Hiltz

Perhaps all these first oil change threads should be consolidated under "Loosing your virginity". Its much easier the second time

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Jon

Semper FI
1963-1969

CommandoRdster

With modern synthetic oil,it's more important to change the filter than to change the oil.The oil doesn't really wear out,it just becomes contaminated.A lot of the contaminates,such as condensed water,unburned fuel,etc.will be burned off if you get the oil up to full temp,and ride it long enough.But dirt,and metal particles,and so forth,which are the most damaging of the contaminates,must be filtered out.

These are tiny filters,and won't hold a lot of crap.When the pores begin to fill up it takes more pressure to push through the filter,and will start to unseat the bypass,which means you will be getting some unfiltered oil into your engine.This won't happen if you change your filter at recommended intervals,but if you double that,you're pushing it.

Cut an old one open someday,and look at all the crud they catch.

The reason it's a good idea to pre-fill the filter is that the filter is between the sump,and the motor on these engines.That is,the oil pumps through the filter before going to the rest of the engine.If you put an empty filter on there,it's going to take 10-15 seconds before the oil pressure builds.Do you really want your cams rotating in the unlubricated alloy of your head? Not me.Modern synthetic oil has the film strength to protect it for a while,but why put it to the test,when it's so easy to fill that filter?

Cheers!
Bruce

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propforward

Not to beat this subject to death at all, but last night I did an oil and filter change, and made sure I filled the filter with oil.

On starting the bike, the oil pressure light went out instantly, just as it does normally in every day use.

I have noticed that it takes several moments longer to go out if you do not fill the filter with oil. The same is true on all my bikes - though there's nothing I can do about that on the ones that have the paper cartridge type.

So there you are, empirical proof that it's worth filling the thing up first.

There, that got me another notch on the old post tally.

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