Triumphrat

oldroadie · 05-16-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankBlack

What's the TPS, O.R.? Yeah, the uphill theorem did occur to me. I'm clutching at straws a bit. Will keep playing with this though as it's bugging me now. Anyone else have this problem?

It's the throttle position sensor that sits on the right side of the carbs, the connector is under the right side cover (mine was tucked under the frame rail at the top). It's meant to adjust the ignitor performance at lower rpm's and I wonder if this is what's causing your erratic behavior.

FrankBlack · 05-17-2008

I appreciate all your input folks. I now have a little list of things to try:

1. play around with shims, pilot mixture, pilot jet size and main jet size - DONE
2. Disconnect the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and look for changes - if problem clears, take the bike to the dealer and have them reset it (can we assume that TPS can be reset? I know the manual says not but I've read on some threads that the dealer can do it...)
3. shorten the diaphragm springs in the carbs or try softer springs

If I've missed anything let me know.

All the best.

Kenny · 05-17-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankBlack

Thanks Wolverine - any ideas on the somewhere else?

My other thought - if it isn't the springs - is that I notice that the angle of my carburettors is slightly higher at the rear (where they would normally join the airbox at stock). It may be around 5mm higher than stock when I refitted them with the carb brace after my ARK. I had wondered whether the floats and slides might be affected by this slightly increased angle. Floats are set at 17mm - both checked last week, but at a steeper carb angle I'm wondering whether this would have the effect of increasing the float height, thereby affecting the fuel level in the bowls, thus affecting low rev performance. Also wondering whether this tilt might create a little more resistance in the action of the slides.

Welcome to the wonderful world of carbs!

My bike's in for its 6k service as I type and they gave me one of the new plastic-badged, fake carb Bonnevilles as a loaner. It's quieter than the wind noise round my helmet but runs smoother than a virgin's thigh. After all my noise about 'authentic' and 'real' carbs etc, I'm thinking 'Lord, maybe the suffering involved just isn't worth it!'. Bring on the microchip...

Frank,
I am not trying to be a smart a.. but you just hit it...bring on the microchip...
I have spent over 2k & 16 dyno runs...it finally came to me....this engine is a hemi engine...being and old SS/AA hemi racer...#1 a hemi loves compression--9-1 wont cut it..( used to run the pistons .055 of the head..so when the rod strtched out..the piston would barely touch the head...presto! big time power..
EFI is the answer...then the turbocharger...If you don't go that way...the EFI is worth 8 lbs of Torque& 8hp...messing with jet's,etc..is a waste of time...a guys got to think...you see all the guys with different combinations...lets just say they run ok..BAM the weather changes--it get's hot..result the engine goes rich...that will not work...The way i think about all this is:you can NOT out run-Money-expercience -Passion- the end 'nuff said.
if you want to persue thi subject- i'll be glad to help you--
what we have here is the compression is d... low it doesn't really light up no matter what you do...to me it's about rideability...it really doesn't matter how much Mx power the bike is making..it's all about EXACTLY where all the power is...torque moves things...
well...this post is long..probably boring everyone..later....
see ya...
by the way---my email ad is a:kennys@bellsouth.net

mikeinva · 05-17-2008

ahhh its not a hemi its a closed chamber motor with 4 valve head .hemi means round chamber.
frank if you un hook the tps all it will do is adv. timeing at idle .Above idle you wont even know its gone.Mine has been unhooked for a year now dont need it.

FrankBlack · 05-18-2008

Thanks Kenny.

Mike, doesn't the TPS ultimately affect fuel consumption? I know it's probably a perennial question, but how come stock carbs have it and aftermarket ones don't?

Anyway, I'll try this today and post later.

FrankBlack · 05-18-2008

Okay, tried unplugging the TPS and I honestly didn't notice any difference. Thought I imagined some low-range smoothness, but not sure. I'd be interested in the pros and cons of doing this though, if anyone wants to comment...

Well, I shortened the slide springs (using safety wire to bind 2-3 coils together) and it appears to have smoothed out the roughness!

Can't quite believe it (that's why I'm saying 'appears'). I'm hoping someone out there will have a couple of those dynojet springs they can sell me and I'll install those instead. But for now the bike seems to pull much more steadily through the whole low-end rev range.

Many thanks to everyone who offered help.

MackDaddy · 05-18-2008

Frank,

I'm using Kawasaki ZZR900 carb vacuum springs p.n. 92081-1760

Slightly shorter & lighter than stock. Give'm a try! They seem to work well for me.

Jim

FrankBlack · 05-18-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by MackDaddy

Frank,

I'm using Kawasaki ZZR900 carb vacuum springs p.n. 92081-1760

Slightly shorter & lighter than stock. Give'm a try! They seem to work well for me.

Jim

Thanks Jim - appreciated.

BellaCorse · 05-18-2008

Quote:

I'm using Kawasaki ZZR900 carb vacuum springs p.n. 92081-1760

Slightly shorter & lighter than stock. Give'm a try! They seem to work well for me.

You rock Mack! Speaking of springs, thanks for sending those other ones. Don't think they'll fit the carbs however.<g>

/Mike

MackDaddy · 05-18-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by BellaCorse

You rock Mack! Speaking of springs, thanks for sending those other ones. Don't think they'll fit the carbs however.<g>

/Mike

Thanks again for the SUPER customer service Mike. Those higher rate springs were just what the doctor ordered. Bravo!

Jim