Triumphrat

koifarm

Can anyone tell me exactly how critical is it to have both marks on the rear tire chain adjuster at "exactly" the same place.
By exactly I mean that both sides are equal and the adjustment marks are both lined up on the same mark.
Or, would it be that if one side were perhaps a fingernail different than the other, would that cause premature chain wear or any other problems ?
Thanks
Bill

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Mods: snorkel removed, bafflectomy, jets out 3 turns, summer screen, cortec tank/saddlebags, Bella Corse Highlander bars,Modre peg lowering kit,Drag specialties mini tach, D9 bracket.

CAPTDON

I have always considered those little marks guestiments. On a jaack- measure/ listen! You will never know if you are rite on the marks anyway? String measure is pretty easy. I go by sound & ease of wheel spin. If you are out on adjustment- a good spin will slow real fast!!
I dont think I have ever been rite on those "marks"? HArd to tell anyway?

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CAPT D

WaltZ

In all my chain adjustments over the decades, it's important to be the SAME (as close as possible) without being laser insane about it. I use a metal measurement ruler marked in metric, and not the factory field hacks built into the frame of which you speak. There's room for play, but be the same.

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- Packy
'04 B&W T100
The Bike I Ride

alfacliff

just make sure the spacing from tire to wingarm is the same on both sides. if it is not, then it can rub on the swingarm and other parts.
cliff

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2006 Bonnie Black
1980 Yamaha xs650

KingOfFleece

I use a Motion Pro lazer tool-it's handy for all types of jobs, machines, and toys. Strangely enough-my bike's marks are EXACT. Go figure. One of the old timers showed me-put the bike on a lift with the wheel free and spin it slow to check for the chain running true over the rear sprocket and this will get you real close.

modre

chain will compansate...the critical is that both wheels track, and the marks are not accurate on mine...you have to set up the track with parallel strings run to the front on both sides, then center the rear.

any off and you'll crab walk down the road, the front end will shimmy, and turns to one side will have to go over the top before it falls into it.

Barnum

But then what are wheel alignments for? My dealer made one at the first service, so I suppose the bolts at each side are not at the same mark, and each time I adjust my chain I mark the nuts with a Sharpie pen to give the bolts the same exact turn. You have me scratching my head now...
And the Bonnie makes a friction noise, rear brake level, when I move it around - dealer said it's not important (more scratching).
Anyone can clarify this?

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Richard

2004 b/w T100.

Brooksie

I would say it would probably be real good practice to adjust the chain to the same marks. You can measure, too, and get it dead nuts. But not even getting the marks dialed in is a disaster waiting to happen.

Baltobonneville

The brake does rub lightly when it's not applied. It's not a problem unless there's serious friction. I have almost 9000 miles--of admittedly gentle riding--and the original front and back brake pads have plenty of life left in them.

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Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes RC, Unifilter, no snorkel, 120/40/Thrux needle/1 shim/3 turns, fly screen, tacho, D9 gauge panel, center stand, Ikon 7610s, Hagon fork springs, gaiters, Pirelli Sport Demons, 3 seats.

CAPTDON

++1 King Thats the way I do mine on the lift. It tells all!@ I guess its us "Old Timers" ?
I guess us Old Timers got the old ways of doing things? Hey it worked then- why not now?? Heres 1+ to us "Old Timers"!!!

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CAPT D