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| Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler |
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04-17-2008
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Powerbike
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 341
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Fuse keeps popping - HELP?!?
so the other day I noticed that the horn, signals, and brake light didn't work. Checked the fuse and it was popped. Replaced the fuse, turned the bike on and tested it and all worked fine (last night). Got on this morning and a little bit down the road when I used my signal, I noticed that nothing was working again.....Any ideas why this same fuse keeps popping? The headlight is working fine (I believe that's on it's own fuse)....The only "mod" I've done to the bike that would have any impact on the electrical system is replacing the headlamp with one of the Sylvania's that everyone here recommends....Help!
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04-17-2008
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Moto Grand Prix
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Stuart Fl
Posts: 3,173
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Fuse
Mine did the same thing. Inside the HL bucket is much stuff. The all mentioned are on the same fuse. Check that you didnt bare a wire or something like that. The problem is in the bucket& its like spagetti in there!! Look @ all the wires (prob TS wire?) try to wire tie them up as best you can.The new HL might get hot & have melted a wire bare? Mine was a little spot where the wire streched out on the insulation & on vibration- bumps etc would just do a quick touch & poof! Good luck!! Its no-mans land in there!!
__________________
CAPT D
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04-17-2008
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Powerbike
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 341
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Thanks, I hope that is the case. I'll dig around in there tonight and report back.
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04-17-2008
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperStock Favorite Bike: 2007 Bonneville T100
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 297 Other Motorcycle: 04 Yam V-Star 1100 (Hers)
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Just in case...
Just for good measure:
When I shortened the stalks on my front and rear sig's I had the exact same problem. it baffled the ****e outta me. I finally realized that in messing with the sig's that I had somehow misplaced one of the "tabs" that contatct the bulb. Ya know the bayonet styke blubs require physical contact in two places...I simply pushed the tabs back where they belonged and all was well. FTR, this only occurred on one bulb, but it did repeatedly short the sytem and cause several fuses in row to blow.
Cheers,
__________________
2007 T100 T&O - AI's off, ARK, K&N's, 42 pilots, 140 mains, 2 turns out, D&D silencers, ACR Adjustable Clubman's, KYB's, WP springs, Thrux gel seat______________________________________________
Who's that little old man with Paul?
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04-17-2008
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Moto Grand Prix
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Stuart Fl
Posts: 3,173
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Fuse
Did the samething Kram- doing the same thing!! Probably his problen too?
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CAPT D
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04-18-2008
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#6 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 425
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I would recommend finding the circuit that those components are on (Shop manual if you have it), pop off the headlight, pull up a milk crate, and armed with a mini mag lite carefully inspect the wires for abrasion.
Many times I have found the problem to be any place the wire(s) pass metal (exiting out the turn signal etc) or pass through a cable tie etc. any potential place that the wires/harness can rub. I would carefully cut the cable ties one at a time inspect the wires, replace that cable tie and then go onto the next.
Carefully inspect the connectors themselves where they connect to a device (turn signal, relay etc.) and see if there is any evidence of shorting or a bad/loose connection.
You'll find it. You just have to have patience and be methodical in your investigation.
__________________
" No.....your other left" (Memories to when I was a Motorcycle Instructor)
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04-18-2008
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#7 (permalink)
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Senior Member
World SuperBike
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Stroud, OKlahoma, USA
Posts: 2,340
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What did you do with the front position light when you changed to a sealed beam head lamp? Did you leave the bulb in the connector?
What mods have you done that would have no impact on the electrical system?
The things that I noticed common to a single fuse were the horn, the flasher unit, the front brake lever switch, and the rear brake pedal switch.
__________________
Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.
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04-19-2008
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Powerbike
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 341
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Yeah, it's fuse #6, which controls the signals, brake light, and horn. I'm about to go out and start searching. I do have the aftermarket bullet signals, so I'm sure there's a bare wire touching the frame or something...Like someone said, I'll find it, it might just take all day!! Thanks for all the sugesstions.
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04-19-2008
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Powerbike
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 341
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Ok....
Took off the seat and checked all wires for any bare wires or anything. All looks good. Opened up the headlamp bucket and checked there too. Nothing. Put a new fuse in again and started her up.
Right signals - check
Left signals - check
Horn - Check
Brake - POP!
So rational thought would tell me that there is some issue with the wiring coming from the rear brake....? Correct?
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04-19-2008
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Powerbike
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 341
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Looks like it was the ground wire that goes to the Lucas style tail light. There was no metal on metal, but it looks like maybe the wire around the connector might be brushing up on the fender or something. Anyway, I taped it up and all is good. Thanks.
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