Triumphrat

Panthermark

In another thread....someone mentioned the idea of changing the oil filter, but not the oil. Makes sense to me.....synthetic oil is expensive....too expensive to dump after 3000 easy miles.

So...I guess one could make a choice. Change the filter every year, and the oil every other year......or change the filter and oil every year...but go with dino oil?

The high today is 60 degrees and sunny...and the bike is out in the driveway awaiting some chain lube. I have not changed my oil yet...so I need to get that done...but I'm now thinking of going with dino. Before I run to autozone...I would like to get your thoughts?

(putting fireproof flame suit on now)

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Mark

http://www.triumphrat.net/photogalle...m793/album755/

Pokeyjoe

Theoretically, if you buy an oil that meets the specs in the manual, you should be OK. I'm getting ready for my first oil change and went shopping for some dino yesterday. I don't want to put synth in until the engine has had a proper chance to break in. Finding an oil that meets the JASO MA spec (for wet clutches) turned out to be a bit of a challenge. Autozone had nothing. I don't know why I even go in that store. I went up the street to Kragen and found some Valvoline ATV oil for 4-strokes that meet the spec in a 10w-40 weight. It was not cheap, however. You might as well spend a couple extra bucks and get the synthetic.

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John
3-7-77
Some people are like Slinkies. They're really good for nothing. But they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

koifarm

Find Rotella full syn at your local wally world, if you don't have one, it should be available at the nearest thing to a wal mart.
Don't remember for sure but think it's around $12-14 (us)-gallon.
Do some searching and you will find hundreds of threads about this matter. Rotella is widely accepted and is suitable for clutch operation. I use it exclusively.
Don't scrimp on oil/filters...use the P-1 by purolator, rated #1 for bikes.
Change your oil once a year or according to the factory specs. Always replace the crush washer, obtain a rare earth round magnet and place it on the outside of your drain plug, you will be amazed how much particle it picks up.
I change mine every 3k regardless, with the rotella, it's inexpensive and good practice to keep good, fresh oil in the bike.
On the bonneville, it takes exactly four quarts for a change counting the oil you pre-fill the filter with before installation and boy o boy, don't EVER forget to take a finger full of oil and lube the filter gasket/oil ring before you install it.
Bill

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BigChiefWoody

+1 on the Wallyworld Rotella!

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killian101

after a certain point...say 5k miles...you shouldnt have to change oil out every 3000 miles...Mobile 1 is good for at least 15k...or am i wrong?

sweatmachine

yep. I use it in my bike then dump it into my lawnmower. Recycled baby!

$20 oil change, full synth. Can't beat it.

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904cc Custom Bonnie Cafe Fighter!

CAPTDON

With new Govt regs on milage, its hard to find ANY oil that doesnt have slippery additives in it! Hence M/C oil! There is some dino oil still there that doesnt have it. Here in Fla- the heat in the summer will fry anything but a GOOD synthetic!! In the upper north- Id probably still be using Castrol 20-50, cept they too are now required (by govt) to put in the additives that wwill trash a wet clutch! The Bonne is oil cooled as well, so the oil does doubleduty! I am using Amzoil w/o ANY problems. There are a couple others that are on par I am sure. I did Mobil 1 & it was ok. The Amzoil seems better on the clutch, & to last longer? I wouldnt skimp on a $6 oil filter, or use old oil w/ a new filter either! If you are in the COLD weather & change oil @ 2000 mi, maybe? Its too inexpensive to chince on the oil & filter since thats the lifes blood of your engine!! I have been doing yearly changes. The last one- the oil looked pretty bad w/ 5000+ mo on it. I am gonna do it now before the gruling summer heat & after- 2x per year. Will give me the security of knowing all is well. If I go up north for the summer- I may not? As far as the crush washer- I am still using the one that came w/ the bike. If I find one some day in my travels- I will pick it up.The wet clutch is what keeps us all from using "friction reducing" oils!! If not- we'd have a whole selection to choose from!! O well?

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Jimbonnie

The oil filter is similar in size and capacity to some 3 liter V-6 car motors. I'd guess it's capable of going however long you want to run your oil, be it 1,500 miles or 15,000 miles.

I don't think it's a good idea to keep oil longer than one year in any motor that's run semi-frequently because of the acids formed when condensation collects within a cooling motor. I figure after the full range of seasons it's time to start anew.

I'm not one for throwing away good oil but think of what you paid for your bike to put things into perspective. A few years ago I watched a fellow at a gas station put the cheapest oil he could buy into his V-10 Viper; a $75,000 car and the fellow couldn't spring for the good stuff. A classic example of pound wise penny foolish.

Speedblue2

I got 41,000 miles on my 05 Speedmaster.I use the Amsoil 20W-50 motorcycle oil.The operators manual says 6,000 miles on oil changes.I go 6,000 miles before I change it.I figure for what it cost I am going to go that long.It does good and does not burn any oil.We are in the extreme heat here in Arizona.We see over 120F in the summer,every summer.I feel we spent a lot on the bike,buy the good oil that is rated for use in our air cooled dual oil pump engines.I even switched over in my wifes car and I use to use Delo in it.If you figure on going 6,000 miles instead of 2,000 or 3,000 miles is it not worth spending the money on the better rated oil? Besides you are only buying one filter and you are spending less time changing oil.It must not do to bad,I still am on the original clutch and last time I adjusted the valves after 20,000 miles only one valve was barely out of adjustment.:

RedBird

Just be sure to use a FRAM oil filter....

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Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.