Triumphrat

Mancha

Hi All,

Installing LED warning lights I somehow blew something in my oil pressure switch/sensor circuit. At the time I smelled burning and actually saw some smoke rising from around the area of the seat or under the gas tank. Problem is I can't figure out exactly what I did to it. I'd like to talk through it and see if anyone has any useful advice.


What it's NOT:

- The warning light itself. I've tried a new warning light harness and that one doesn't work either.

- The warning light harness (see above)

- The pressure switch harness (I've replaced this as well)

- The fuse. This said, which fuse IS it, exactly?

- Basically, I think I've managed to rule out the subharness to the warning lights, as well as the subharness to the oil pressure switch.


What this leaves(?):

- The main wiring harness. Looking at the wiring diagram, it seems that the oil pressure switch is a very simple circuit. It shares a green/red wire with the neutral light, and since the neutral light is working, I think this wire is okay. The other wire, a white/black wire, leads to the oil pressure switch itself.

- The switch itself.


So I suspect one of three culprits:

1) This white/black wire is fried somewhere in the main harness.

2) The oil pressure switch itself is fried. I replaced the subharness, but failed to replace the switch, embedded in the engine, itself.

3) The fuse?? This would surprise me though as all the fuses look fine. Still, I'd replace the fuse if I knew exactly which one it is. I think I replaced the instruments fuse (#5 in Haynes manual) just to be on the safe side. Everything else (all the warning lights, the illumination lights, everything) works, so Fuse #5 ("Instruments, ignition control unit, starter relay") must be the one, right? If so, the fuse isn't the culprit.


These eletcrical problems drive me nuts. Although I recently bought a multitester, I don't know how to use it. Having watched a friend use his for various tests, the prospect of learning how to use mine is daunting. Nevertheless, I'll read the instructions tonight.

Reading through the Haynes manual I see that I'm supposed to check for voltage at the switch's harness connector. After this I'm supposed to check continuity with the engine running and then with the engine not running. Yeah, right: I had to disconnect the carbs just to get to the switch, so I don't think I'll be testing anything with the engine running. ***?

Well, at this point I'm just venting. Still, if anyone has any advice, I'd welcome it.

Mancha

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CAPTDON

I just got one as well. I dont know how to use it but if I ever need it(havent yet) will have itfor a friend to tell me how & what! Good luck- I dont like elecproblems as well!!

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CAPT D

Mancha

Not much interest from y'all regarding my problem (which must have been too difficult, too easy, or just too long-winded), but I thought I'd provide an update anyway.

Using the Haynes manual and advice from a friend about how to use the multimeter, I was able to establish that the wiring works as it should. This means that the oil pressure switch itself is bad. This is both good news (because I won't need to go into the wiring harness) and bad news (as it will take almost two weeks for BikeBandit to get the part to me). Still, it's good to have the problem figured out, although it's not yet solved.

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greyplague

Mancha,

read your post too late for a prompt answer: I had the same problem and found out the switch was out of order. The switch has a normally closed contact that'll open when the oil pressure builds up >> engine running.
This means that a multimeter will show app. 12 V with one wire on the positive battery pole and the other on the switches' connector when the contact is on and the engine not running. With the engine running the voltage will be zero- if the switch (and your oil level/ pressure) is OK.
You can use a 12 V test lamp if you like: light off between + and oil contact with engine running means a good switch.
Consider buying a simple test lamp as in the pic: you'll find them in every auto parts store: they hold a 12V lamp ( visible trough a slit, always test this bulb between a live wire and the ground- they're not completely bulletproof!) and the cap on one end can be unscrewed to reveal a needle. This can be used to pierce the insulation of any wire you'd like to check: the hole will close after drawing the needle out- no insulation tape needed! On the end of the wire sits an alligator clip: great to clamp on a frame part ( unpainted) to create a ground connection.

click to enlarge

I'm an electrician and have enough multimeters around: on the bike and car this baby- easy to put in a tool roll- is enough to do most of my testing.
If your oil contact is at fault you can run your bike with the lead to the switch detached- no probs.
GRTZ, Thieu

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mikeinva

you might call baxter cycle they may have one in stock. they stock alot more then bandit

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Mancha

Thanks for the solid advice. I have a feeling I'll be needing one of these in the coming weeks.

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