Triumphrat

peastick

I had my first (free) service done by the dealer where I bought my bonnie new. He put too much oil in it, so when the time came for the one year service, I thought I'd do it myself. He had failed the test, basically, even if it meant losing the warranty.
Went to the dealer, got a genuine triumph filter and new crush washer for the sump plug. Thought I'd skip buying the filter removal tool, because I was sure I'd get them swapped no problem.
Got home, to discover they'd sold me the wrong size crush washer. (why "crush"? It doesn't crush at all!) Also, the filter is so snug and well protected, I couldn't get it off. Phoned them, and asked them to put a removal tool aside, I'd be down in the next week.
Went down the next week, swapped the washer and picked up the tool. The parts dept. lady said "let me just check it's the right size tool, they use different diameter filters on the old bikes" and got out a new filter from the store to try it on. Sure enough, the tool was too big. So she gave me the smaller one.
Get home, and take off the old filter beautifully easy with the removal tool. Fill the new one with oil, screw it on and go to put the removal tool on to torque it to 12nm as directed... and the tool won't fit. Too small!
So I've got two different sized filters. Both sold by the same dealership. Both genuine Triumph parts. Each requiring a different size tool.

Why didn't the jelly-heads in the parts department warn me? Why did they sell me an "old" large filter, part number T1210444, if they should be using the newer smaller one? The lady in parts said it was all about "flow rates" through the filter or something.

So I'm posting this for a couple of reasons.
1) Be warned, there are different sizes out there! Don't get sold a genuine filter, to find it's a different size to your tool once at home.
2) So I can be ridiculed for buying genuine parts. (There is a reason... it might scrape me in on warranty if needed)
3) To ask the old and wise why they would change filter size, other than to ensure the rip-off continues.
4) For sympathy.

I'm not expecting a response on 4), but anything else is welcome!

bendavanza

Take a big screwdiver and puncture the old filter to get it off if you have to. (instant wrench but messy)
Oil filters (regardless of what Triumph says) go on hand tight.
Quit buying Triumph's filters and get ones that have their own tool built in like this one:
http://www.newbonneville.com/html/oil_filters.html
They can't void your warranty for not buying their oil and filters, as long as you use oil and filters that meet the specs they call for.
-Ben

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01 Bonneville, 56 Thunderbird, 68 TR6, 71 reversed head Bonnie (chopped), 79 HD Shovel, 67 MW Benelli 350 single, 46 BSA C11 plus many piles and projects.

http://www.bendavanza.com

KingBear

I can reply to all four of them with two words: oh well!

I also change my oil using a factory filter, but I'm lucky enough to get the right size from my dealer. I just use a great big pair of adjustable pliers to loosen the old filter (I don't care if I bugger up the old one) and haven't bothered to change the drain plug washer. I installed the new filter no tighter than I could get it with my bare hands, and all has been well.

For as often as I will need to change the oil I'm just going to stick with the factory filters even if they cost a bit more. I suppose the only thing for you to do is make sure to ask for the filter by part number (not bike model) and then you'll be assured it will fit the bike as well as the tool.

Sorry about your bad luck, but don't let it get you down.

dazco

Yes, why buy T filters?! I buy a Bosch available at any auto parts store 1/2 the cost of the triumph one, and they have the tool there for another 2 or 3 bucks that you can try b4 you buy if you're worried. As to the crush washer, i use them over and over and over and over and, well....you get the idea. never once had a drop leak.

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2005 Speedmaster, Neon Blue, Thunderbike pipes, snorkel removed, UNI filter, drilled airbox, 130 mains, TBS needles.(2 shims) And speaking of Speedmasters, HERE'S MINE

mecscc

Sorry for your troubles. Sounds to me like your problems are with single digit IQs of your "dealer's" folks, not with filters.

Regardless, it was a "learning" experience. Here's my take on the whole mess:

There is no reason to buy Triumph filters and there are many, many quality substitutes at much lower prices.

This advice, by Ben, is well worth heeding: "Oil filters (regardless of what Triumph says) go on hand tight." Ditto on having to use a torque wrench on the filter or on the drain plug. Fill the new filter with oil, smear some oil on the filter O ring, spin it on by hand and give it a tug, by hand. Ditto with the drain plug, put it on by hand, then use a socket with a 10" handle, tighten it snugly against the crush washer and give it a little tug.

Proper AR behavior? Of course not. Experience doing this: 54 years.

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Monte

"The Old Ohio Preacher Man"

peastick

You guys in the States seem well set-up for alternative filters. Anyone in England using an alternative filter with integral nut welded on the top which is available here?
As for hand tightening only, I accept the advice - thank you.

CAPTDON

Just caught the England part. I have been using NAPA Gold 1358 filters since new. Sometimes I have to use water pump pliers to get the old one loose, but hand tighten is the way its suooosed to be put on! I guess you guys dont have the choices of filters we have? There are aprox 15+ that will fit! Best of luck to ya!!!

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CAPT D

steviek

UK peeps - the clue is in the New Bonneville piccie, where you can see the vendor's part number. Just Google (UK) for "KN-191 oil filter" and you'll find Web shops selling them.

Try this one (apologies for the huge URL):

http://www.triumph-online.co.uk/bonn...uals-289-c.asp

Happy riding!

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In a world that becomes more ordered, regulated and monitored every year, choosing to roar down the road on an impractical, dangerous, and downright glorious piece of machinery is as free as most of us will ever get. Thank God for the motorcycle!

T-Hundred

Replies are to the whole thread, not just steviek's post

Just because a filter screws onto the engine doesn't mean it's the right one. There are a lot of important factors beyond that, such as flow rate, particle filtration size and bypass valve opening pressure.

A filter that passes larger particles can cause excessive engine wear. A filter with a low flow rate can starve the engine for oil. A too-high bypass valve setting can prevent oil flow if the filter is clogged.

Considering that many of us spend hundreds or thousands on accessories and mods, saving a few bucks (quid, kroner, whatever) on a filter doesn't make sense to me. The filter change interval is 6000 miles or 10000 kilometers, so a filter change isn't going to happen every week.

I'll stay with a Triumph part. If there happens to be a lubrication problem, there won't be any finger pointing!

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2007 Bonnie T100
2004 BMW R1150RS

Baltobonneville

In a moment of stupidity, I bought the "official" Triumph oil filter tool for too much money. As it turns out, I use the Purolator 14612 filter and the tool fits it, but I haven't needed it. (BTW, this filter is probably of a better quality than the Triumph filter, and half the price.)

I turn the filter until it snugs up, then another 1/2 to 3/4 turn by hand. I can remove it by hand. This is an application where a torque wrench is not necessary.

Last year, I noticed that the filter worked slightly loose about halfway through the season, so I'm now in the habit of checking it occasionally. It was not installed too loose, but it worked loose.

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Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes, Unifilter, no snorkel, 120/40/Thrux needle/1 shim/3 turns, fly screen, tacho, D9 gauge panel, center stand, Ikon 7610s, Hagon fork springs, gaiters, Pirelli Sport Demons, 3 seats.