Triumphrat

Galloway

I recently replaced my T100 handlebars and I want to put the chrome end-caps onto my new bars. On the original bars there were plugs to screw the end-caps into, but I think they were spot welded into place. Anyone have any clever suggestions what I can use in the new bars to replace the welded parts?

Thanks

bsmith222

You can use a rubber cork to plug the hole in the bars and attach the bar ends with a sharp screw, like a sheetrock or wood screw, directly to the rubber cork.

-brent

jbfla

This doesn't exactly answer your question, but if you don't find another solution, you could try some chrome bar end weights, the kind that expand inside the open end of the handlebar.

jb

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2006 T-100, 120 jets, Tors, UniFilter, no a/i

barfito

If you get one of those compression fitting bar-ends for hollow bars, you can probably swap the actual bar ends they supply with your originals, screwing them right into the compression fitting.

The cork solution's alot cheaper, tho...

amanger

Bash some lead fishing weights in the bars then drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the bar end screw.Due to the soft nature of lead it will tap its own thread into the lead.

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"Fusion White" Street Triple, Arrow 3>1 + Power Commander III, DNA Filter, No O2 sens. ,No SAI, Flyscreen + Visor,R&G Tail Tidy, Triumph Tail Bag, Pazzos,Gel Seat,Radiator Cowl,Hugger,Crash bungs, Grabrail.......

5bassman

This worked perfectly for me, but I used real cork, hammered it in, and snugged them down! Make sure the small end just fits. That way when you get it fitted in place, the cork has compressed alot and it's almost like a wood dowel inserted there. (I've tried that too)

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2005 Triumph Bonneville Black

Odysseus

If you're considering bar-end weights, MotoTwin sell a universal type that can be used on bars without threads.

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Oddball (Kelly's Heroes): Man, I only ride 'em - I don't know what makes 'em work.

killian101

Best idea...thats what i did

Colin_In_Ottawa

I turned down some aluminium bar stock till it was a slight interference fit, drilled and tapped the center and then knurled it so that it had to be hammered into the bar ends. I added a bit of JB weld just to be sure they would stay put.

The funny part was that both ends of the bars were a slightly different I.D. and these were on high priced Flanders seamless bars.

That's probably why nobody mass-produces a fix... Too many variances in I.D. size because of metal thickness, plating thickness, bends, etc.

I guess in a pinch if you can't find a lathe you could do it with a drill press, a file and some patience. To duplicate the effects of knurling, just use a sharp punch all over the piece to cause enough high-spots to lock into the bars.