Triumphrat

onnel

So my new 07 thruxton has been an utter joy. It is completely stock (aside from bar end mirrors and AI removal), which will change soon, but I wanted to get a feel for the bike as is before making changes. Took it in for the first maintenance (was at 490 miles or so) today.

Before 500 mile maintenance:

The only issue I had been having is that after spirited riding (twisties or freeway) when quite warm, it was idling at 2K, which obviously wasn't right. Otherwise, it was perfect - warmed up quickly (under 90 seconds to idling happily at 1K) and no popping or any adverse reaction at all even under heavy engine breaking in 1st gear.

500 mile maintenance:

I mentioned the high idle when totally warm and they found that one of the cylinders was way too rich and adjusted it in addition to the usual oil change (to full synthetic), etc...

Now:

Idle is right on at 1K once warm, which is great, but...it takes *forever* to get warm now. I have to keep the choke on for a few minutes when it is cool out. Also, I'm now getting a good amount of popping and a sound like valve clatter when under heavy engine breaking in 1st.

It seems like popping is actually when engine breaking and my previous lack of it was the anomaly. Is this correct? Also, is the sound like valve clatter anything to be worried about. Finally, does everyone's thruxton take so long to get fully warm when it's a bit chilly (50F) out?

Honestly, other than the high idle when quite warm I liked how the bike was performing before the maintenance better. :-(

Thanks so much for the assistance!

sweatmachine

sounds like you're running a tad bit lean; popping, long warm up, etc.

get a "d" tool and richen your idle mixture up 1/2 turn.

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onnel

Assuming it's going to take me a bit to get (or make) a dtool, I'm not doing any damage to the bike riding in it's current condition, am I?

Thanks!

Aaron

ohiorider

You're running essentially stock. A little bit of popping on overrun (engine braking) won't hurt you, Wish I could figure out how to convert my DVD to a YouTube. If I could, you'd hear my buddies Bonnie with well-worn TORS really popping as he engine braked! But as Sweat said, you could eliminate this condition by richening the pilots just a touch.

Bob

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03 T100 Lucifer Org and Silv: 122/42 jets, TORs, 18T, UNI filter, no AI, Polaris bellmouth, Metz 880 tires, Prog. 440 shocks (105/150 springs), 11-1124 fork springs, Thrux fork caps, gaiters, MotoTwin low bars, 6024 lamp, htd grips, 12v outlet.

TommyGun

For the first 750 miles or so on my Thrux, I was always adjusting the idle. I'd pull up to a light after 15 or 20 mins of straight riding and it would be idling at 2k +. I now have 2600 miles or so and I never touch the idle screw. I also pop just a little bit when engine braking, but it doesn't bother me. I can't wait to get my TORs. Hopefully I will have them before the summer starts.

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Echoance

A thought just occured to me: I, too, preferred the performance of my bike before the oil change because the break-in oil is a lot thinner than the standard oil and doesn't rob as much power. Possibly, the viscosity of the oils will also have a part to play in how long the engine takes to get to temp.; that is, the thicker oil will take longer to warm up and cool down.


Just a thought.

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English_Spanner

[QUOTE=Echoance;937458] I, too, preferred the performance of my bike before the oil change because the break-in oil is a lot thinner than the standard oil and doesn't rob as much power. QUOTE]


Another one with a dyno strapped to his arse :-))

You are having a laugh....aren't you?

In the voice of Jim Royle "oil my arse!"

Baltobonneville

Echoance, you are kidding, aren't you?

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Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes RC, Unifilter, no snorkel, 118/40/Thrux needle/1 shim/3 turns, tachometer, Ikon 7610s in back, Ricor Intiminators in front, Pirelli Sport Demons, D9 gauge panel.

Echoance

Nope. Amd I don't need a dyno, either. The speedo and tacho told me everything I needed to know. After the first service, I lost about 4mph in each gear at the same revs.

Break-in oil is thinner. Ergo, there's less drag in the engine. Compare walking in water to walking on dry land.

I may be wrong as to the reason but not to the effect.

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ohiorider

Something else happened to your bike while it was in the shop. It developed either a speedometer or tachometer error. Even if you lost some horsepower, the relationship between road speed and tach reading will be the same. Unless the shop changed to a different size tire or a smaller front countershaft sprocket.

Bob

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03 T100 Lucifer Org and Silv: 122/42 jets, TORs, 18T, UNI filter, no AI, Polaris bellmouth, Metz 880 tires, Prog. 440 shocks (105/150 springs), 11-1124 fork springs, Thrux fork caps, gaiters, MotoTwin low bars, 6024 lamp, htd grips, 12v outlet.