Triumphrat

DharmaLion

Happy to join rat.net. I've been reading the posts for months, and have gotten a lot of useful info. This is my fist post------

I have a brutally stock black bonne (2005)
I went out and got a hi flo Uni filter, iridium plugs and removed the AI kit. Now, once the bike heats up (say after about 30 minutes) I'll get stalls on take off and hard stops. The Jenk's notes say no changes are necessary to the carbs, and I believe it......but the bummer is that I live in California and can't access the pilot screw since they're capped.

I think it's running too lean now, and $600 is a lot to pay for the rejetting.

I went out ot the Bella Corse site and got the 125/42s -- I have 15 years on bikes, and have turned a wrench....is it really tricky? Looks simple on paper?

Any takes on doing it yourself?

Thanks!
Dean

Kramocker

This oughta help you: http://www.dinqua.com/
And no..it's not a problem at all to do. Just be ridiculously careful with the garbage pot metal scres that hold the bowls on. it's serve you well to buy the stainless steel carb screw kit from Brent at New Bonneville BEFORE you begin.

Cheers,

SK

__________________
2007 T100 T&O - AI's off, ARK, K&N's, 42 pilots, 140 mains, 2 turns out, D&D silencers, ACR Adjustable Clubman's, KYB's, WP springs, Thrux gel seat______________________________________________
Who's that little old man with Paul?

bmetz99

I removed the caps from my '04 (a 49 state model, they're capped too). I got ahold of a little jeweler's hand drill (literally just a small chuck that you twist by hand) and drilled a hole in each cap. Then I tapped a small sheet metal screw into each cap.

One popped right out, revealing a nice, unmolested mixture screw.

The other refused to come out, period. Went to successively larger drills & screws, the doggone thing was stuck so tight that it just stripped out when I pulled on the screw with a pair of pliers.

Ended up removing the carbs and taking a Dremel tool to the second cap, using what is essentially a tiny (1/8" diameter) mill bit to enlarge the hole in the cap until I could see the screw head. Kept working carefully outward, eventually the walls of the cap got thin enough so that it started to turn freely in its hole, at which point it practiacally fell out.

Okay, so sometimes you get lucky, and sometimes you have to work for it.
Yep, and yep.

Once you uncap the idle mixture screws, you're 90% done. From there just warm the bike up, and turn each screw out 1/4 turn at a time, alternating back and forth between the screws, until the idle speed stops increasing. Go back in 1/4 turn, and your idle mixture is now set for best running, instead of best emissions. This solves most poor-running manners on stock bikes.
Great! Hang onto 'em. You'll need 'em when you uncork your exhaust system. But as long as you're running the stock mufflers, you won't likely need 'em. Heck, 115 mains are perfect for TORs.

HTH

Bill

__________________
\"A motorcycle is a tool, not a fashion accessory"

My Bobber

DharmaLion

Thanks a lot Bill--- That was the [cheapest and easiest] advice I've gotten in a long time.. I'll keep my eyes out for a set of Thrux take-offs .....

By the way is "turn each screw out 1/4" clockwise or counter?


Dean

pabonne

My advice? Take the plunge and learn how to remove the carbs. You don't need to unhook the cables (reattaching them is the biggest PIA of the whole job iMO) just slide them out the petcock side so you can swing them up and see what you're doing. Honestly it's not a bad job for a novice. Speaking from experience here. What is bad is breaking the carb casting, which is what I managed to do when trying to remove the anti-tamper plugs as bmetz99 describes. It's the right way to do it, just be careful.

__________________
2003 790 Bonne (black, not Black) / 1969 Tiger TR6R (oh so sweet)

Addicted to Triumphs for over 40 years.

oldroadie

counterclockwise...righty-tighty, lefty-loosey...

__________________
1964 Highway Trophy TR6SR
2004 Bonneville America

coelacanth

And just be careful not to screw up the threads by cross-threading like I did recently. The Carb body is made of soft aluminum and very easy to break the thread if you aren't careful.

Using a mini ratchet like this will make the job much much easier.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...chet+craftsman

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07 Bonneville "Orange One" & 08 Street Triple "R"

bmetz99

Wow. That's a mighty fine jetting calculator. I punched in my setup (which works perfectly) and it calculated 129 mains (which exist only theoretically), matching my 130s.

Based on that, I'd go ahead and install a pair of 120 mains based on your setup. Not a headache if you're going to pull the carbs anyway, and they oughta take care of the leanness caused by your low-restriction air filter. Amazing the difference that one change can make...

Bill

__________________
\"A motorcycle is a tool, not a fashion accessory"

My Bobber

Kramocker

What????

This is the first I've heard of capped pilot screws. Would someone please give me the history here? My 2007 had no such thing.


Cheers,

SK

__________________
2007 T100 T&O - AI's off, ARK, K&N's, 42 pilots, 140 mains, 2 turns out, D&D silencers, ACR Adjustable Clubman's, KYB's, WP springs, Thrux gel seat______________________________________________
Who's that little old man with Paul?

cafecruzin

try here as well some very good information http://jenksbolts.com/redirect.php?a...+Info+2007.pdf

__________________
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alcohol, caffeine, sugar and fat..
Alex Levine
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