Triumphrat

neuroboy74

i saw D9's awesome pictorial and was planning on a dremel-rific date with my fenders as soon as the weather turns south here in beantown. that is, until i talked a guy at my local shop. . . a guy i trust. . . the kind of guy who REFUSES to humor squid-kind by selling a literbike to an 18-year-olds who've never so much as thrown a leg of a bike before.

ok, anway, he said that the dremel cutting tips might be too fragile for the bonnie's fender and i'd risk busting it and throwing bits of cutting tip in dangerous directions. i'd really like to use the dremel 'cause it seems infinitely easier that a "sharp hack saw" as he suggested. thoughts on this?

5bassman

Dremel tips work fine. That's what D9 used.

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2005 Triumph Bonneville Black

kdlutes

>>i'd risk busting it and throwing bits of cutting tip in dangerous directions.<<

I've not bobbed my fenders with a dremel (yet) but I've used that cutoff bits many, many times. But the guy is right. Those bits break and parts will go flying. Just protect your face and eyes before starting and make sure no one else is around.

Hedge

Dremel will work fine but DEFINITELY WEAR EYE PROTECTION! PLEASE!!!!

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Proud to be an American Infidel!
http://www.thingsididilastnight.com/

Skyblue62

4" angle grinder but go slow else you'll burn the paint and like Hedge says wear eye protection

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Ian

Kurtis

I went for the delicate touch of a 5 inch angle grinder, just to remove the 'meat' of the job. After that, A sanding wheel to do the more delicate bits, then finished with a bunch of files and a soft flap wheel in a power drill.

BUT, mine wasn't a bob, more of a full removal. There's just enough left to protect the electrics...

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'07 Thruxton, Zard Trofeo pipes, No airbox or AI, Keihin CR specials with K&Ns, New ignition system, Ikon shocks, progressive springs, track pads, Tarozzi adjustable clipons, sawn off RMG, matt black paintwork. CBR600 wheels and forks in development.

fender

When using the dremel you will break/go through several cut off wheels do to the curvature of the line you're cutting. Even if you are using the glass reinforced ones. Only run the cutoff wheel deep enough to get through the fender and they will last much longer. Definitely where eye protection.

Baltobonneville

I can't imagine doing this job with a hacksaw. I think it would make a mess.

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Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes, Unifilter, no snorkel, 120/40/Thrux needle/1 shim/3 turns, fly screen, tacho, D9 gauge panel, center stand, Ikon 7610s, Hagon fork springs, gaiters, Pirelli Sport Demons, 3 seats.

D9

neuroboy74,

First, how about you put down that chair...?

Re the Dremel-A-Bob technique...

If memory serves, I think I only used one wheel for the fenders, it was the fiberglass reinforced type, approx 1" OD - this one:

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/dremel/426/?ref=base

No breakage... took it easy, even pressure on the dremel, several passes made, with a gradual cut-through... extra care as the edge of the cutting wheel goes completely through the metal, it tends to want to grab & jump... so a firm hand needed then... as seen in the DIY, use two hands to steady the tool... look a little in front of where the tool is headed... keep in mind the smooth radius you're trying to achieve...

Highly recommend you experiment on a piece of steel of similar thickness to the fender, depending of course on your dremeling experience... as stated previously, if you value your eyesight at all, a set of decent goggles is a must-have...

Good luck, post a pic of the finshed project...

Cheers,

D9:

Weasel Pete

I put a piece of duct tape over the area to be cut and draw on top to keep the paint from chipping. Hacksaws are okay to get a rough trim but a dremel is really the way to go. Go slow with a firm hand and you'll be fine. Since you're cutting a curve stay to the outside of your line then use a fine file to smooth it out. A belt or disc sander is also useful.