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What is the ballpark figure for a valve adjustment

6K views 23 replies 13 participants last post by  coachconnor 
#1 ·
The bike is coming up on 24K miles, and I ran the clearances. They're getting a little too loose, so I'm looking at setting the clearances. Other than having the bike apart while waiting on the correct shims and buying a mike and the oil line o-rings, valve cover gaskets and such, I am mechanically minded enough to do this. However, I'm debating on whether the hassle is worth the bucks I'd save. I will take it to my nearest Triumph dealer in Batesburg (100 miles away). What has a valve adjustment run you guys on a 796 motor lately?:dunno
 
#2 ·
I seem to remember getting quoted $300 from my local dealer, so I did it myself - at least I an only blame myself if I mess it up :)

N
 
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#4 · (Edited)
Anymore I just don't trust people enough. If I can do it myself I do it. That goes for pretty much everything. It's not so much about the money it's about having some mechanic wrenching on my ride and I'm not watching every move he makes.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I was quoted everything from $295-$700, All reputable dealerships and 1 indie shop, I went with the $295 dealership and worked out great. I do lots of things to my bikes, I don't delve into the motor. (I always enjoy the "Do It Yourself" crowd that always shows up in these threads as if you had not thought of that...):bluduh
 
#7 ·
I am a Chevrolet mechanic (50 years) and I expect people to drop off their pride and joy car for me to work on. Go away. Just leave it here and I'll fix it. Stop watching me through the glass door. But I won't take my bike anywhere to get worked on. I'm not going to let those jerks wrench on my bike. So I am sympathetic to customers and their cars. I know what they are feeling. I know I am the jerk. I don't usually talk to them. It's tough both ways.
But I am above 50,000 miles and my valves haven't been adjusted yet. I took it apart and measured them and removed the cams to mic the shims. No parts at the dealer so I put it back together. Close enough.


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#9 ·
They were in spec or looser. None were tight. I think it was around 30,000 miles. The worse one was 1-2 thousands out. I still don't hear any noise or notice any change in performance. It seems to just keep running better. That is probably just me. Ran great yesterday. It likes cool weather. I get around 36-38 mpg. Always have. If I grandpa it I can get over 40. Or ride with my Harley buddy's.


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#13 ·
I've been quoted $300-$450.

The additional tools I needed (cam locking pins and wrench from Triumph, digital micrometer), cost me a little more than $100, and can be used again, and will be used again this season, as I have 31,000 miles and am overdue for the next service. Other than time spent getting shims, it's a one-day job for me.
 
#15 ·
#17 ·
The mechanics at RidgeMotorSports in Batesburg, SC have a great reputation from the grapevine. I don't have trust issues with the folks there. The tolerances are loose but they are getting noisy, too.
 
#18 ·
Those torx screws on the cam caps are a bugger to get out, so if the gaps are within .004" of nominal, I would say leave them alone.
The bonnie gaps seem to be pretty stable - not like my FZ-09 (thanks yamaha).

You can only get shims in .002" increments right??? Screw and locknut, much better.
 
#19 ·
Just completed doing the adjustment on my '05. It was actually a lot of fun, especially as it's the dead of New England winter here, which is work-on-the-bikes time. I have 14K on mine and they were loose enough that it was time to do. While I've done frame-ups on vintage bikes all by myself, I'd never done valve adjustments on an OHC/shim motor, but, following the directions, it was quite straightforward. You will need a micrometer (ideally metric), and a set of decent graduated metric feeler gauges, The dealer swapped me shims, so my only costs were gaskets/seals - did the whole job for under $40. I did make the tools on my lathe for securing the anti-backlash gears - that, too, was part of the fun. Just follow the instructions carefully, except for the business of taking off the alternator cover, etc etc. You can easily properly position the cams by removing the plugs, placing the machine in gear, and nudging the motor around with the rear wheel.
 
#20 ·
Just follow the instructions carefully, except for the business of taking off the alternator cover, etc etc. You can easily properly position the cams by removing the plugs, placing the machine in gear, and nudging the motor around with the rear wheel.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, that alternator cover part is a hoot. Pull the plugs, slip it in 3rd, and drop a wooden dowel (or a new stick pencil) in the spark plug hole and rock it gently until the high point of the piston's travel is found.
 
#22 ·
I'm going the shop route for this. I won't need another adjustment for a long time at the rate it's going. Just not worth the hassle.
 
#23 ·
Coach… if you can, call Jeff, make an appointment and then trailer the bike up so that it's cold when you get there… That way Byron can just get on with the job… Having a near empty tank helps with easing the tank removal too… Byron can usually do the job in around two hours or so… They'll also have the shims, gaskets, etc. on hand if needed… Byron has bugged me about me DIY'ing the job… Rather than running around for the shims, gaskets, etc., it's just a whole lot easier to trailer the bike up, have them do it and be done with the whole thing…
 
#24 ·
I was planning to trailer it up, and if I left it there, come back and ride it home. But if they can do it that fast, it would be worth goofing off somewhere and making just the one trip. Thanks for the heads up. I have to wait until the wife gets up and around from her knee surgery.
 
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