Triumphrat

pabonne

10,000 miles and both front and rear are looking pretty thin. Any recommendations on replacement pads? I'm more interested in durability and low cost than performance.

Is this a DIY job for someone with borderline mech skills? I have the shop manual, looks fairly straightforward but tips, words of caution, etc would be greatly appreciated. I didn't see anything in the blogs on this.

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2003 790 (black, not Black) KARK'd, K&N Cones, Staintunes, 130/42 jets, 2.5 turns out, BC Superbars, CRG LS mirrors, Generic Rubber, 16t

Why? Too many H-D's.

ssjones

I put EBC Double-H pads on my America. OEM rear pads were shot at 5,500 miles, but the EBC's went 11k. So good pad life and braking performance is improved. Put the same pads on the front.

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Al
66 Bonneville Chopper - The Beast
02 Bonneville America - Beauty

ohiorider

Small hint - keep in mind that the caliper pistons are extended because of the wear on your current pads, and you'll need to push them back into the caliper so the new pads will (have room to) slip over the brake rotor.

I generally push the pistons back before I remove the old pads. You can do this once the caliper is removed by inserting a very wide screwdriver (blade, not a Phillips) between the old pads, and rotating the screwdriver while tightly holding the caliper. The blade pushes the pistons back into the caliper, making room for the new, thicker pads to slip around the rotor.

Others may have their own way of accomplishing this task, but this has worked for me for years.

RE pad type - this will receive nearly as many comments as an oil or filter thread. I'm not a hard rider, and have had good luck with OEM (triumph) pads. As I recall, others have used EBC pads.

Bob

BTW - do not under any circumstances squeeze the brake handle or depress the brake pedal while the caliper is removed. You'll blow the pistons out of the caliper, and that would be a mess to straighten out. Just so no one else comes up and messes with things while I'm working on the bike, I wedge a tennis ball (or beer can) between the brake handle and grip. You could also tie the brake pedal so it couldn't be depressed. This may be overkill, but .....

One more hint .... don't immediately jump on the bike and head for the open road before you pump up the brakes after remounting the calipers. It will take a couple of pulls/pushes to attain a full hand grip/foot pedal.

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2003 T100 (790cc) Lucifer Org and Silv: 122/42 jets, TORs, 17T, UNI filter, no AI, Polaris bellmouth, Metzeler ME880 tires, Progressive 440 shocks (105/150 springs),11-1126 fork springs, gaiters, MotoTwin low bars, 6024 lamp, htd grips, 12v outlet.

rodburner

PA,I changed mine 2 weeks ago at 18,000. No manual,less knowlege. The rear took 10 minutes total.Pushed the pistons back in with a screwdriver between the old pads.No bleeding required. Did the front,but tweaked the little,thin tin pad holder.Didn`t notice,remounted everything and got no pressure.Took it apart 3 times before seeing the bent little clippy wasn't allowing the moving pad to slide evenly.Got it straightened with some needlenose pliers and got instant lever pressure without bleeding.Take your time and look in the book first,and you will need less than an hour.I used new OEM pads just because I didn`t know about the aftermarket ones when I bought these 2 years ago.

uzidzit

I could not believe the difference in performance and as to life if you brake correctly all the time you will probably kill those "sunstar warp-o-matic) rotors before you need new pads. (I got 15,000mi on my last set of Ebc's HH pads on the DL650.)

braking rules:

1. use both brakes all the time except on loose surfaces (use the rear only when you hit the gravel or loose surfaces).the gravel pull offs come to mind.
2. use the front for 90% of the braking above about 20mph, then transition to the rear slowly till you have reversed the ratio to 90% on the back.
3 don't ride the rear brake without noticing (its easy to do on some bikes I've done it).

ps Practice braking often the drill I use is to run up to speed squeeze the front till the weight transfers and then settle the rear with just a light drag on the rear brake, when I hit 20mph or so I let up on the front and apply more rear till I come to a complete stop. You have done it right if there was no change in the compression of the front suspension during the stop(after the initial compression of the front forks). This takes alot of practice to learn but will pay off big time in improving your smoothness! ps rember you should be in first when the wheels stop rolling. (save the bacon panic stops excepted just hall it down as quick as you can)

Practice your SYA stops regularly form speed to a dead stop not just down to 10 and then roll on. (no need to practice above about 45mph as it gets dangerous and you have learned the technique from 40 to zero!) when you really have it licked you can try it at higher speeds but it does involve some risk.

when in doubt gas it!

if you are running wide and fast in the turn gas it (gently) and push harder! (and may the goddess of friction see you through, have faith and she will !)

slightly off topic but I've seen some bad riding recently and we all could use some basics time.

KSSU

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"Peter, It seems like you have been missing a lot of work recently, well Bob I wouldn't say that I've been missing it"
ENOUGH, go out and ride!

pabonne

Great tips, I'll give it a shot. Looks like the EBC's are roughly $40/pair. I'm going to call my dealer tomorrow to see how much the OEM's are - I'm guessing $30 ish. If that's the case I think I'll give the EBC's a try.

uzidzit, definitely thread hijacking but I hear ya.

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2003 790 (black, not Black) KARK'd, K&N Cones, Staintunes, 130/42 jets, 2.5 turns out, BC Superbars, CRG LS mirrors, Generic Rubber, 16t

Why? Too many H-D's.

oregonthruxton

I can stop on a dime with my EBC's. Had to twice yesterday as two different people pulled out in front of me. Dam sure glad I had the EBC's.

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'04 Thruxton

panthercity

Be prepared. Last I checked, the stock pads from the dealer were in the $50-neighborhood. (YMMV)

I'm likin' my EBC HHs for the past 6k miles.

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Bob AMA #162726 LPR #54
`02 BMW R1150RSA
`06 Triumph "Scrambled"

Anchorbend

Rodburner did the same thing but one of the ears broke off. Triumph doesn't have a part number for one of the front ones. It is hard to explain but trust me they couldn't deliver. Scary part was Triumph America said that part wasn't used anymore. Sure!!! The brakes used are the same as used by many Honda models, Shadows etc.. Nissin is owned by Honda and their dealers can get parts quickly.

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You've never rode until you've been throwed.

CommandoRdster

Pardon my denseness.I'm guessing SYA= Save Your Arse?

Cheers!
Bruce

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