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Old 09-05-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Question Advanced issues with SignalMinder

Group,

I tried this post on the Club Cafe forum but have had no responses and thought I'd give it a try here.

I need some help from the electrical guru's in the bunch. Let me lay some groundwork.

SignalMinder on 2005 Thruxton Installed with running lights hooked up. All fittings soldered.
Springs installed properly and function properly in the turn signal switch.
I have Rizoma LED turn signals installed front and rear.
I have "Superbrite LED's" installed in all idiot lights except "High beam" indicator.
Turn signal has the six (6) LED Superbrite bulb.
Hot wires leading to the "Turn signal" indicator have diode's installed on each hot wire.

Now here is where the dilemma starts. All of the features on the SignalMinder work fine. BUT! The Turn signal indicator (idiot light) works when activated but stays rather brightly lit when it is not flashing. (Major pain in the eye after dark) I used the schematic diagram that has been floating around on this and other web sites that show the diodes installed on the hot wires and both hot wires attached to one side of the "Turn signal flasher" and the other side of the "Turn signal flasher " going to a ground wire.

After installing the setup as per the schematic I am wondering if this is azz backwards and the install should have a hot wire with a diode installed on both sides of the socket like it was originally wired. Perhaps the turn signal indicator (idiot light) wouldn't be on all the time if it were hooked up this way but i'm not sure, that is why I'm hoping for some help. I have a day or two before I can tear back into things and thought I'd ask for some advice before hand.

Please guy's I need rock solid information on this answer.

Hey "Ridge" any suggestions on this one?
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Old 09-05-2007   #2 (permalink)
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Have you tried it without the diodes? It's been a while since i did this, but I seem to recall finding that they don't need diodes because the bulbs are wired internally so that you do not need to use diodes. I think they are wired such that they are non-polarized. You may want to just get in there and bypass the diodes and see if that does it. Use a couple of alligator jumper wires or even a couple pieces of solder........whatever is easiest.
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Old 09-05-2007   #3 (permalink)
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Dazco,

Yes I tried without the diodes and because my turn signals are LED's the bleed over caused my blinkers to do a four way flash. That is why the LED's need the diodes installed.

Thanks for responding though.
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Old 09-05-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Well, i can't see this in my mind, but i do have one more thought. Did you use power resistors to load the signals?
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Old 09-05-2007   #5 (permalink)
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dazco,

"Did you use power resistors to load the signals?" I have absolutely no idea what that comment means. Could you expound a little more on that one?

Thanks for your reply
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Old 09-05-2007   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah.......LED's don't put the same load on the system that bulbs do. I'm actually surprised you didn't see this somewhere before you did the mod. But most places will tell you about adding resistors to put a load on them that will approximate the load a bulb presents. Without it they don't work right. not sure exactly what the symptoms are but one i believe is fast blinking. And what you are experiencing may also have something to do with it. usually you add about a 6 ohm power resistor to each signal or side. I think typically about 20-30 watts if i recall, and they need to be mounted in such a way/place that they won't melt anything because they will get hot. Google it and find out. Or check out the ebay stores. Many offer the resistors and tell you just what you need with thier bulbs. in fact i would think the place you got yours should know and explain it to you.
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Old 09-06-2007   #7 (permalink)
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Fast blinking is too much current draw.

Fast blinking of the signals is an indication of too much current draw through the flasher, more draw, faster heating of the reed, faster blinking. Too little current draw solid on no blinking.

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Old 09-06-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Hey, where do I get the high powered LED replacement light bulbs for my Bonnie?

That sounds like a no-brainer for safety, and modifications needed?
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Old 09-06-2007   #9 (permalink)
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Food for thought -

Turn signal issues with LED bulbs
LED brake/tail lamps will not flash with thermal flasher units due to their extremely low current draw. These installations will require an electronic flasher unit, available in our car bulb shopping category (for some vehicles) or at your auto parts store. Try to find flashers designed to work with LED bulbs, they will say "LED compatible". Often HEAVY DUTY flashers will also work with LED bulbs.


Another fix is the installation of Load Resistors which are wired across (in parallel with) the turn signal bulbs to simulate the load of a standard filament bulb. We also have these available in our car bulb shopping category.

Dash indicators reporting burnt out bulbs
LED bulbs may cause some newer vehicles to indicate a bulb is burnt out (because of their low power consumption). Some cars indicate this by increasing the flash rate of the turn signals, some turn on a bad bulb indicator. The only fix for this is to install Load Resistors across the bulbs that are being indicated as bad. Some vehicles will also disable the cruise control system if a brake light bulb is being indicated as bad, the installation of Load Resistors will also solve this problem.
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Old 09-06-2007   #10 (permalink)
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dazco & uzidzit

Now that I understand your question I'll explain.

My blinkers flash at the same rate that normal blinkers do because they run through the SignalMinder. This serves the same function as putting a load on the system.

Understand that everything within my system functions flawlessly except that the idiot light doesn't go out when it is not flashing. This is what I'm trying to fix.
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