Triumphrat

stu

Further to my previous post, the horn works if I ground the secondary terminal, I since removed the switch from the bars and checked for continuity when the button is pressed, and that works OK too, 13 ohms with button pressed. I had thought (hoped) that pressing the button shorted the circuit to ground on the handlebars, but it appears wires now disappear into the bowels of the headlamp where I fear to tread. Just where is this thing supposed to ground out? Haynes manual seems to show a numbered block of somekind., with a wire going to terminal#8.Is this a common block where all the wires congregate before going to a master ground somewhere?
Mechanical stuff = fun
Electrical= sucks

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Stu


TORs, NARK, thruxton needles, 140mains.40 pilots 2.75 turns out, procom igniter, 17T

Baltobonneville

Just guessing, but the wiring from the switch probably goes to a connector in the headlight shell.

While the wiring might look like spaghetti in there, it's a bunch of different connectors and once you get the headlight out of the way, it's not too daunting to separate the wires. (Just put it all back neatly when you're finished.)

From what you're describing in this and your other post, it seems that the break is in the connection between the horn and the switch. It might be that connector, probably in the headlight shell. Broken wire is less likely.

I would try to identify the correct wire(s) in the connector and test from there, it might just need to be pulled apart, greased, and put back together to make it work.

Also, check that the wires are securely connected to the switch.

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Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes, Unifilter, no snorkel, 120/40/Thrux needle/1 shim/3 turns, fly screen, tacho, D9 gauge panel, center stand, Ikon 7610s, Hagon fork springs, gaiters, Pirelli Sport Demons, 3 seats.

bonnieblackinfl

If you have a repair manual, there is a wiring schematic in the back of it. At least the Triumph manual does, I don't know about the Haynes.

Greg

webonnielad

This actually has a color diagram in it which is a lot easier to follow.
It gives test tips on a lot of stuff and information on resistances etc for testing in some cases. Like the ignition coil for instance, you wont find that sort of thing in the OEM manual.
So I have both.

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790cc 2003 T100 Bonneville. 18T Front Sprocket, AI Removed, 125 Mains, 40 Pilots, Thruxton Needles, 1 Shim,3mm Air Hole, Mixture screws 3 1/4 turns out left carb, 3 turns out right carb, Unifilter, NH Belmouth, NH Classic Togas with no mutes inserted, Stock Ignitor Unit. Hagon 320mm rear shocks & progressive fork springs. Last measured. 61.60 hp, , Max torque 48.40 in 5th gear at the rear wheel at 7200 rpm, 105 mph in 5th at 6500 rpm.

stu

One of the problems of being a young 70 is the tendency to get prolonged brain farts. Once my friend with a T100 joyfully pointed out I was messing with the starter button instead of the horn button the problem resolved itself quite quickly.
Anyway, the Brit bikes have the horn on that side and I was born there.

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Stu


TORs, NARK, thruxton needles, 140mains.40 pilots 2.75 turns out, procom igniter, 17T

CAPTDON

I forgetyour original problem but when I put a new horn on I found thatth Bonne has a positive ground & the horn HAS to be insulated from anything frame/ fork ets wise. When I got that rite the horn worked rite on. Wish it was a little louder but I think you always wish that no matter what yo uput on? I used storm shutter bushings t oinsulate thehorn. Worked real good.

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CAPT D

bonniesaltrat

Not to steal this thread, but I replaced the horn with a louder aftermarket horn about a year ago. Lately when I go over a bump, I get a little "beep" out of the horn. I assume the bumps are causing the horn to move, make contact with something, and fire. Suggestions?

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SaltRat
2006 T100, Black & Red

"This life is a thump-ripe melon — so sweet and such a mess." Greg Brown