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| Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler. |
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08-17-2007, 11:49 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Member
Grand Prix 250 Main Motorcycle: '07 Bonnie T100
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 56 Other Motorcycle: '06 Suzuki SV 650
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That is beautiful stuff. Wish I had the cajones to attempt such a feat. Can't wait to hear how it progresses. Thanks for sharing.
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08-17-2007, 03:21 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 940
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Greg, the head looks great... One of the bad things with these heads are the factory used to big of inside diameter valve seats.. There's just not enough bottom and top angles on the seats.. Good luck with your project..
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08-17-2007, 07:07 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Supersport 600
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Arizona
Posts: 181
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Oh my god .... That beats fine Jewelry in my book any day of the week. Nice work ... Now if I could find a wrecked Bonnie on ebay with an engine intact... I dont want to wish an accident on anyone in order to get it ... bad mojo .... but if it were parked and a semi ran over it .. and I could try to build it out to 1200 .. well I would be all over it.
Alex
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08-18-2007, 12:10 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,251
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I wish my wife thought that it beats fine jewelry. Just build one out of your bike, it's just a little down time
Greg
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08-23-2007, 03:35 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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New Member
Production 125
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 7
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I'm confused
Hi there, let me start by saying I really respect the effort you've put into your project. I can't help but to have a couple of questions though in the interest of better understanding for us all.
1) What is your goal for power delivery range? Is this a drag or street tuned application?
2) Why have you chosen to mirror polish the intake side? Doesn't convention dictate the intake tract should be uniformly rough? I've been reading elsewhere, and it seems the preferred finish is to use 80 grit to create groove's perpendicular to airflow; supposedly this assists air/fuel homogenization, correct?
3) With your goals of better flame propagation, deterring carbon buildup and reflecting heat in the cylinder, are you concerned with how quickly aluminum (I'm assuming aluminum heads) corrodes? Will the smoothness still be present when the layer of aluminum oxide forms? Will the heat reflection be significantly diminished by this inevitable metallurgical property, or are you applying some form of surface treatment or process to stop this?
4) Are you concerned that the increased radiant heat will be harmful to the engine internals, contribute to detonation or otherwise cause issues? Do you plan on retarding the timing, or ceramic coating the exhaust to help channel this heat out of the cylinder?
Lastly, while you're at it you might enjoy researching "Somender Singh", and consider his work (patented) in improving turbulence in the combustion chamber by creating a vortex. Popular Science did an article about this in Sept. '04, and I stumbled on this article (will it let me post a link?) http://www.pesn.com/2005/10/13/96001...tion_Chambers/ while researching for my own projects.
Thanks in advance for your answers, I've yet to engage in my own P&P projects, but I've been reading a great deal, and would really appreciate extra input before I commit my efforts.
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08-23-2007, 03:45 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme Main Motorcycle: 2001 Sky Blue Bonneville
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coventry, England
Posts: 708
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Your confused!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeppowr
Hi there, let me start by saying I really respect the effort you've put into your project. I can't help but to have a couple of questions though in the interest of better understanding for us all.
1) What is your goal for power delivery range? Is this a drag or street tuned application?
2) Why have you chosen to mirror polish the intake side? Doesn't convention dictate the intake tract should be uniformly rough? I've been reading elsewhere, and it seems the preferred finish is to use 80 grit to create groove's perpendicular to airflow; supposedly this assists air/fuel homogenization, correct?
3) With your goals of better flame propagation, deterring carbon buildup and reflecting heat in the cylinder, are you concerned with how quickly aluminum (I'm assuming aluminum heads) corrodes? Will the smoothness still be present when the layer of aluminum oxide forms? Will the heat reflection be significantly diminished by this inevitable metallurgical property, or are you applying some form of surface treatment or process to stop this?
4) Are you concerned that the increased radiant heat will be harmful to the engine internals, contribute to detonation or otherwise cause issues? Do you plan on retarding the timing, or ceramic coating the exhaust to help channel this heat out of the cylinder?
Lastly, while you're at it you might enjoy researching "Somender Singh", and consider his work (patented) in improving turbulence in the combustion chamber by creating a vortex. Popular Science did an article about this in Sept. '04, and I stumbled on this article (will it let me post a link?) http://www.pesn.com/2005/10/13/96001...tion_Chambers/ while researching for my own projects.
Thanks in advance for your answers, I've yet to engage in my own P&P projects, but I've been reading a great deal, and would really appreciate extra input before I commit my efforts.
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Uh? am I logged on to the bonnie forum? must stop sniffing the old WD.
Lovely job on the head though!
__________________
Ian
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08-23-2007, 04:10 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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New Member
Production 125
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 7
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LOL. Aw, come on now, some little motor-go science related questions don't mean that it's not still Bike related. A buddy of mine has a Bonnie that he is considering porting, and I offered to give him a hand after I hone my skills on less showy projects. I'm an Engineering student, and I've always been a bit detail focused. I would really appreciate some answers from some other gear-heads though! I want to know how the porting is best optimized for the Bonnie's characteristics. Plus, I really want to understand if the detail and effort in this polish-job are more-show-than-go. While the finish is fantastic, I don't really care how pretty the internals of my engine(s) are, I just want to streamline their performance. I'll focus on polishing the visible parts to make it look purdy.
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08-23-2007, 04:20 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Senior Member
World SuperBike
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Willingboro, NJ
Posts: 2,054
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I'm kind of interested in this, I used to port and polish my own cylinder head when I was racing, and was cautioned by a very well respected guru in that enterprise, to not mirror polish the intake tracts and internal cylinder head surfaces, basically for the same reasons opined above.
So, I never mirror polished a head to compare it with one not polished, to see a real world difference.
But I saw no reason to doubt his advice, after all I won a few races with his heads on
G
__________________
I never wanted to lead, and I never wanted to follow.
I just wanted to ride
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08-23-2007, 06:12 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 1,251
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Don't be confused, it's easy!
Jeep, thanks for your questions, and yes "show & go" is for sissys. I would not expend 40hrs of labor into a set of heads to make them "look pretty" when they are going to be covered up anyway.
This is a street tuned application with occasional drag racing, however I believe you misread my narrative.
The exhaust ports are polished, and the intake ports will be finished off with a 60 grit barrel roll after I complete the shrink porting. You are correct that a rough surface is preferred, it doesn't promote a boundry layer for the fuel that falls out of suspension. The rough surface also promotes better fuel atomization by keeping the charge turbulent.
The polishing on the exhaust ports act the same as the chamber, it reflects heat, which aids thermal efficency for exhaust scavenging. The chamber is actually less prone to detonation than a stock chamber, less surface area for hot spots and even with carbon build up the reflective properties are still active.
I see no more concern for corrosion than I would with a stock head. The stock head is raw aluminum, as mine is. Also with heat that is reflected, and the amount of carbon that builds, oxidation should not occur, I think the head would melt first.
Power: I don't know, hopefully enought to outrun a Hybusa. I know I would like 100 hp NA, but what ever it is will have a 50hp shot of nitrous on top of it.
Greg
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08-23-2007, 06:23 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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New Member
Production 125
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 7
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Seeking Enlightenment...
I may need to try this theory out on one of my junk-cars... just got to get the wiring harness and EFI conversion; thank god Tercel's are cheaper than ****!
Maybe we can get the Mythbusters to buy a Bonnie, and try out both techniques for us?
Any gear-heads here actually tried similar intakes with both methods? Mirror polished and perpendicular ribbed (for your pleasure or the bike's?) I could see the intake polishing being beneficial if it were on a direct-injected motor, but I'm assuming this application is on a carbureted Bonnie, which would seem to prefer some opportunity for mixture blending. *** do I know, come 'on you Wise Master Gearheads, enlighten us with your Holy Wisdom!
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