Triumphrat

webonnielad

Hi Guys well i just had all my carbs apart after the bike had been flooding, cleaned everything out including the tank, been running with carb cleaner in the new gas etc. Done a 100 miles ok, went to start her up this morning she spluttered a bit after about 3 miles she sounded like she wanted to go on reserve, which was unnesecary as I had plenty of gas.

Now I'm begining to think this is an ignition problem, thats revealing it's symptoms as a carburration problem.

Had the leads out, checked plugs, no visible signs of flooding this time.
Difficult to tell if the sparks are intermittent.

Only real clue is that she was running slightly hotter on one side, thats what it felt like on the silencers anyhow.

Please any ideas.
Test methods for leads, coils, ignitors etc.

Thanks guys.

Jon (UK)

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790cc 2003 T100 Bonneville. 18T Front Sprocket, AI Removed, 125 Mains, 40 Pilots, Thruxton Needles, 1 Shim,3mm Air Hole, Mixture screws 3 1/4 turns out left carb, 3 turns out right carb, Unifilter, NH Belmouth, NH Classic Togas with no mutes inserted, Stock Ignitor Unit. Hagon 320mm rear shocks & progressive fork springs. Last measured. 61.60 hp, , Max torque 48.40 in 5th gear at the rear wheel at 7200 rpm, 105 mph in 5th at 6500 rpm.

RonD

most problems are usually fuel or ignition obviously, you have cleaned and checked the fuel system , you say the bike went perfectly ok for a 100 miles after doing this, so we move onto to ignition leads are easily checked for continuity with a meter, buy new plugs there cheap and spares are a good thing to have,if the bike ran perfectly the other day timing is probaly ok,
that leaves the coil thats probably the next step.
but haveing said that it could still come back to fuel good luck ..

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Regards Ron
Hurricane pictured(Harry)

mistermellow001

Your symptoms sound very much like what happened to my bike. I thought I was running out of gas (felt very similar). Turned out that one plug wire was loose at the coil end (found out the hard way - ZAP). After I secured it the problem went away.

Could also be a cracked plug, coil, or wire boot. Spark will sometimes arc to ground through a crack if that path offers the least resistance. Moisture in the wire boot at the coil end will make the journey shorter for Eddie the Electron (sorry, too much Mr. Wizard as a kid). If you washed your bike lately, I'd pull the wires and inspect for moisture just to be sure, in addition to what others have suggested trying.

Next time it does it, pull over if you can and leave the engine running. Kneel down on the side of the engine you found was cooler than the other, and listen for spark snapping to ground somewhere. You can also see spark jumping if the light's low enough.

Just one suggestion among the others to try.

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Guy

tc_dick

did you also check the tank venting? The little hose on the right side came off of my tank and that caused problems similar to what you're describing.

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'07 Silver Bonnie
Seattle, WA

RedBird

Jon,

From your description, it almost sounds like a tank venting problem...these tanks vent through the fuel cap. If it is not working, it will act like it needs to be switched to reserve when you have nearly a full tank. The overflow hose is for just that--the overflow of fuel when the tank is over full, and it also has a "tip-over" valve in the path from the tank to the underside of the bike routed over and behind the carbs.

Next time it does this, try loosening the fuel cap and see if it runs OK...if it does, you need to take the fuel cap apart and fix the vent problem. You can also check the fuel cap vent by putting your mouth over the threaded part and sucking to see if you can get air to pass through the fuel cap.

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Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.

grayghost

Another thought to diagnose "spark arching". In a darkened garage WITH THE GARAGE DOOR OPEN AND EXHAUSTS POINTED OUT run the engine until warm.

Take a spray bottle of water, get down on your hands and knees, and lightly mist around the spark plugs, leads, and coils. If the ignition circuit is compromised with a crack in any of the insulation it will likely become evident then. Basically you are simulating wet ridding conditrions or very high humidity.

Let us know how you make out.

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" No.....your other left" (Memories to when I was a Motorcycle Instructor)

MrTwin

Check your float height setting. 17 mm, plus or minus 1 mm.

Jimi_X

Need a little more info. By "flooding" do you mean gasoline in your air box, a black sooty plug, or a wet plug thats not firing but has relatively good color? Maybe we can narrow it down to fuel or spark. As suggested, loosen your fuel cap if it happens again,....don't want to see anyone disabled due to a bit of vacuum. Ignition system components are pricey. Sometimes it's easier to eliminate what it isn't.

Don't you just love intermittent troubles. Murphy's Law with intermission.

webonnielad

Took my laeds off and tested them for continuity and they read the correct resistance etc.
Swapped sides and the right side still runs strong, with a nice warm silencer but the left is inttermitent and the silencer is only very slightly warm and then she cuts out.

Enquired to the dealer about new HT leads, nearly fell over when he told me the price £40 + Vat each to you guys on the other side of the pond thats about $120 + sales tax each. Glad I tested the leads.
Asked about a new coil, get this! £689 + vat again thats about $2000.00 + tax US.
I asked him if I could trade my bike for a coil.

Any how I e-mailed Peter Jenks and he gave me the website for a coil distributors in the UK and I called them.

£59 inc vat and postage for next day delivery, for the very same Gil engineering coil that goes onto the Hinckley Bonnie,s as an OEM part. Thats about $160 inc tax or better still a superior quality German coil believed to be the same type as is rebranded for nology for the same price.

I know the nology is cheaper at NB but I don't wanna wait 5 weeks and with the Tax, Postage and customs clearance charges riggerously enforced since 9/11 it works out about the same.

Just incase our UK bretheran want the website addy ,address and phone NO: of the coil site it's:

http://www.triumphparts.gbr.cc/70000/contact.php

Anyway thanks for all your help and God Bless Peter Jenks.

I'll keep you posted.

Jon (UK)

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790cc 2003 T100 Bonneville. 18T Front Sprocket, AI Removed, 125 Mains, 40 Pilots, Thruxton Needles, 1 Shim,3mm Air Hole, Mixture screws 3 1/4 turns out left carb, 3 turns out right carb, Unifilter, NH Belmouth, NH Classic Togas with no mutes inserted, Stock Ignitor Unit. Hagon 320mm rear shocks & progressive fork springs. Last measured. 61.60 hp, , Max torque 48.40 in 5th gear at the rear wheel at 7200 rpm, 105 mph in 5th at 6500 rpm.

PAAS

I think either you or your dealer has made a mistake. I know Triumph parts can be pricey, but not even they charge £689 + VAT for an ignition coil. I think that should be £68.90 + VAT. Also, I don't think the £ has quite reached $3 (yet), it's more like $2. This ties in with BikeBandit.com quoting $135.65 + Tax for a Triumph supplied coil. The HT leads are $75.77 + Tax each.

The "Nology" coils sold for the Bonnie are actually made in Germany by PVL and available (without the marketing hype and BS) as a spare part for a BMW bike from http://www.motobins.co.uk/displayfin...IGNITION+COILS at £27.50 + VAT and P&P. (Product code 70606 - PVL GERMAN DUAL OUTPUT COIL FOR TWIN PLUGGING R SERIES [you only need one]). You could make up your own pair of HT leads or buy suitable ones off the shelf from a motorist accessory shop for a lot less than £80 + VAT.

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Paul.

Herts. UK
Opal & Tangerine 05 T100 (865cc)
(Previously Ducati Monster S4 and numerous UJMs)