If you already have the Haynes manual you are off to a good start. The Haynes manual rates each job with one to five wrenches. It gives removing and replacing the cams three wrenches; "fairly difficult" or suitable for a competent DIY mechanic. If you think that describes you, it pretty much goes just like in the manual. The nice thing about the cams on these bikes is that they come out without having to undo the timing chain.
I did the cam removal when I reset my valves and the only pointers I would give are:
Carefully follow the manual instructions on lining up all the timing marks, including removing the alternator cover to line up the alternator. I took a digital picture of everything before I took it apart to be double sure of how to line up all the marks. If you do the job on the side stand, you won't have to drain the oil since very little is in the alternator case when the bike is on the side stand.
Be really careful when you remove the camshaft holder bolts since it is easy to strip out the sockets (I learned the hard way). I recommend using an impact driver to break them loose.
Cover all the oil return holes in the head so you don't drop loose pieces into the crankcase.
Be sure to have a locking pin something like the Haynes manual (see drawing below) or the Triumph tool so the anti-backlash gadget doesn't unwind. With new cams you might have to swap the anti-backlash device and will also need the Triumph tool (or something like it) that winds up the spring.
Good luck.
Rich
