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2014 T100 Junction box very hot

1K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  Mike Lawless 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi,
Being (very) new to this forum and all things Bonnie, I hope someone can help me in layman terms with the following.
I have a 2014 T100 and I really like the custom scene. As such I've started to custom it myself. Nothing structural or engines tuning etc, but little bolts on here and there etc.
First stop, back mud guard off and swapped with new lighter and shorter one. I bought new 'plug and play' bullet LED indicators front and back. They turned out to be anything but and needed much twiddling and some soldering to get them sorted. Also purchased with them, a new regulator which I was told would be required to slow the flash rate down. It did, but they still flash faster than normal.
I later found out that the 2014 T100 has an electrical system that doesn't really like the LED set up. I believe its called cambus or something?
So question one: Is it ok to leave the LEDS fitted?
Second question: Having got them on, I found that one of the 'junction' boxes in the nest of wires squashed behind the headlight gets very hot. The voltage (regulator?) that sits on the forks and feeds this box is cool. Is this normal? Or is there a shorting going on somewhere?
The green flasher light on the speedo dial stays on when I have the indicator so however doesn't flash in time with the indicators when on.
Have I opened a can of wiring worms? Arghhhhh?!

Hope one of you may have trodden this route and can help me!
Many thanks
Max
 
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#2 ·
If you're referring by "junction box" to the regulator-rectifier connector, if it's getting very hot, you need to do something about it.

Mine got hot enough to melt one of the wires and burn a hole in the connector housing, effectively cutting off the charging system and leaving me stranded a few months ago. I replaced the regulator-rectifier, which with the wisdom of hindsight was not necessary, but did have the effect of replacing the burned connector. Unfortunately, I threw the old r-r away, and there was probably nothing wrong with it other than the burned connector.

You can do one the following:

1. Clean up and tighten the terminals as best you can and continue to monitor it.

2. Cut off the connectors and hard-wire the connections. This is what I intend to do if I catch it getting too hot again.

3. Replace the connector with one of same or with a more substantial connector that has less chance of overheating.

There are several threads about this issue, including more detailed information about the connectors.
 
#3 ·
Hi,
The junction box I'm referring to is located inside the headlight in amongst the wiring there. I'll take a look through the other threads to see if there's a identical issue and I'm hazarding a guess it's to do with the LED set up that may not be compatable with the 2014 electrical system.
Many thanks
 
#4 ·
I think you're referring to the connector that joins the regulator to the wiring loom. There's also one joining the stator to the loom and both are prone to dirty or corroded contacts and a consequent rise in temperature. One of them, the one from the stator, is well-known for overheating and melting.

 
#5 ·
By the way, if it is the regulator-rectifier connector heating up, I seriously doubt that is related in any way to what you're doing with LEDs. That's a separate issue for which I don't have an answer because I have the older setup without CANBUS.
 
#6 ·
I agree. Don't think it has anything to do with either the LEDs or the Can-bus. The latter only affects communication between the ECU and the speedometer, it has no other function on these bikes unlike stuff like BMW's etc where you can't even change a bulb without permission from the obergruppenfuhrer that's ensconced in the ECU...:)
 
#8 ·
Good point. This sort of permanent magnet alternator relies on any surplus current being dissipated within the charging circuit. Decosse's opinion on this would be useful.

If it's only the flashers that are being replaced by LEDs it'd only be another 10-15watts though, wouldn't bother the regulator too much.
 
#9 ·
Many thanks for your replies guys. The black 'junction' connector box I refer to is located inside the headlight. It appears to get its feed from the voltage regulator located on the front forks outside. The grey voltage regulator is cool. The black junction box inside the headlight is hot to the touch.

May have to run it down to the dealer for a diagnostics to see if there's a short somewhere. Thanks again!
 
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