Triumphrat

Normandy · 07-17-2007

A 1 amp charger should be on the battery for at least 24 hours and a 1 hour charge at 4 amps for a boost charge (NOT recommended). Your dealer is an idiot, sorry if he's your buddy. A new batt should be SLOW charged. If you are getting a click from the starter, ignore the battery reading on the multi meter cause the batt when filled with acid and not charged will show over 12 volts but not enough amps. Charge your batt fully and I bet it starts.

Geoff · 07-17-2007

The negative cable goes strait from the battery to a bolt on the back of the engine, towards the bottom. If you look where the swingarm is closest to the engine, you should see it
G

357Bob · 07-17-2007

Do you have a 12 volt test light? Do you have a DVOM? Or even just a VOM? What is the voltage at the fuses? What is the battery voltage? Maybe it was charged backward. (It happens) The charger shouldn't just click. Red on positive. Black on negative. In other words. Start from the beginning.
I do this for a living on cars. I am bad about assuming too much & trying to figure out a problem because "I am smarter than any old book". Wrong. I have to go through my feeble mind what that first paragraph says. Good luck.
This will sound stupid but check with a volt meter or test light from the negative side of the battery to somewhere on the bike frame or engine. There should not be any voltage reading there. This is called a voltage drop test. Should be near zero. Bob.

PUKKA · 07-17-2007

I briefly looked over the wiring diagram and cannot see where the headlight, turn signals and starter have a common point unless it is a ground. The kickstand switch would disable the ignition circuit so it shouldn't roll start.
The logic of the failures you are experiencing looks like the unlikely (though not impossible) event of multiple component failures. When everything is on and running flip the headlight up to high beam to make sure that it's not simply a burned out headlight bulb.
Beyond that I have sucessfully used this link to trouble shoot the Rectifier / regulator and alternator system

http://www.electrosport.com/electros...t_finding.html

download the pdf file and go through it completely and in order. I think every bike owner should have a copy on their desktop.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

jjswetnam · 07-17-2007

I'm gonna charge the battery for 24 hours on a trickle charger... and I'm gonna really cross my fingers, hard. Thanks for all the support.

Any other suggestions are welcome. No lights, no blinkers, no horn, and no starter. Dummy lights work fine.

...here's a question. When the bike's running, shouldn't the lights work or could that be just a dead ass battery too?

Jimi_X · 07-17-2007

Do you have a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Milliamp Meter) or VOM (Volt Ohm Milliamp Meter)?. The digital ones are by far easier to read and also more accurate. Measure across your battery terminals. If you have a reading or 12.45 to 12.85 VDC then you have a fully charged battery. (new it should be 12.75) The process you described with the new battery is called "Dry Charging". When the acid is added, the lead and zinc oxide plates now have a medium to create a battery. It will come alive at about a 70% charge. This is usually enough to easily start the bike.

If the battery is OK, switch the DVOM to Ohms scale, (resistance). Remove the fuses and measure across the terminal points. They should indicate close to 0 Ohms or a short circuit. If any fuse indicates an open circuit (Meg Ohms or higher on a DVOM, replace that fuse.

If battery and fuses are OK, check the ignition switch. Wiggle the key around. Check the ignition switch harness to it's connection. Make sure it is tight and has no moisture in it.

Waiting for your reply.

jjswetnam · 07-17-2007

I had the battery tested and it was fully charged, but I've got it on a trickle charger right now overnight. (just in case)

I can't seem to find the ground wire. There was a cut in a really thin wire that was connected to the bottom of the engine, but I think that's the neutral indicator.

What's the best way to make sure the ground wire is grounded? Could this potentially be the problem? A bad ground wire?

Geoff · 07-18-2007

A bad ground will ruin your day, no doubt about it. Maybe take a jumper cable, connect it to battery neg, and clamp the other end to a bolt or something on the engine, just so there is a good ground, then try it. If it works, you know the ground cable, or its connection , is bad
G

Jimi_X · 07-18-2007

To test your battery ground, disconnect the ground (Black) cable from the battery. Switch the DVOM to Ohms or resistance and measure the resistance from the cable end to the engine case or frame (bare metal of course). It should read a short circuit or 3 Ohms or less. (Should be almost none)

This connection must also be tight. A loose connection will still indicate low resistance or short, but without a good connection, the high power required to turn the engine over will not be available.

While you"re there you might as well check the connections at both ends of the positive cable (Red).

If anything looks out of the ordinary, do what Geoff suggested. It will prove that the problem is or is not in the battery to ground circuit.

jjswetnam · 07-18-2007

I still can't find the actual GROUND WIRE... '02 model. Maybe I'm just an idiot (which is more than likely), but I hooked up a set of jumper cables from negative on the batt to an engine bolt and nothing. I'm just really confused to what the possible culprit is. It seems weird that the neutral and oil lights come on... I can push start her with ease, but even when it's running, no lights, no horn. Definitely no starter when she's dead.

What could possibly effect all these things? I guess I'm just gonna take her to the dealer tomorrow. It's my first bonnie, and I've only had her a week... talk about frustrating!

Thanks.