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Old 07-07-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Minitwins
 
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After very much stripping, sanding and buffing, I now have a kick-ass, shiny, bare steel tank.

I read on a car forum (cars...bleh, I know) that you don't need to (shouldn't) clear coat the polished steel. Just seal it using a good wax-type product (Meguair's 3-step) and that's it.
The post said that's all you need to prevent rust and keep it looking
pretty. Plus if something does happen (ding/scratch) you just sand and buff, and re-wax. Cool.

So, does anybody have a bare steel tank? If so, is it sealed with permanent clear-coat, wax?
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Old 07-07-2007   #2 (permalink)
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Can't answer your question but would like to see the tank. Sounds spiffy.
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Old 07-07-2007   #3 (permalink)
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+1 really would like to see that tank.I've been thinking about doing the same :-D
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Old 07-07-2007   #4 (permalink)
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G - IMO - You will have to clear coat - unless you are prepared to do a lot of upkeep.

Any steel will oxidize if not protected. Waxes, oils etc will work initially but eventually the steel will start to rust and it seems once it does you can't stop it, clean them up and they rust again overnight!

I polished up wheels, forklegs etc etc on a project and got a good 6 months with no sign of rust. Not sure if it was the humidity in the air but the thing just went crazy and I don't think I ever got the same luster back in the steel after it had rusted and couldn't stop it reoccurring
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Old 07-07-2007   #5 (permalink)
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I wonder if I waxed with a high-quality product, that is very durable,
and re-waxed every month or so if it would let rust through. My bike is always garaged. It rarely ever gets wet. Plus the wax I'm looking at claims it "prevents oxidation caused by UV rays"... whatever that means. Didn't know that was possible.

The idea of using waxing appeals to me because there's no chance
of running, bubbling, peeling, etc. like with clear coat, and if the tank does get scratched, I can easily remove it - unlike with clear coat.

I don't know, I may just clear coat. I'd love some more opinions though.

I'd be happy to post pics when I'm done. I'm doing black
bobbed front and back fenders as well, mini turn signals,
and a couple other mods.



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Old 07-07-2007   #6 (permalink)
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G,

Every ***** tool in my shop RUSTS like hell in the ***** rain and humidity we have these days. Bucking bars (for airplane rivits), screwdrivers, hammers, complete tractors, etc. I keep them oiled and dry, no luck. I am 90 miles south of you. I think you gotta clearcoat. Just my .02 worth.

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Old 07-07-2007   #7 (permalink)
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G - You will also need to take it to someone who knows what they are doing to clear coat it.
Because you have a highly polished service there needs to be special preparation to get the clear coat to stick and you also need the right clear coat for the application. Some clear coats will rob the shine you have worked so hard for and others will go yellow after time. Talk to your local metal polishers they should be able to set you straight
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Blackjacks '07 T100
  • Raask Minizoom Rak Straight
  • NARK
  • AI Removed
  • Procom ignitor
  • Thruxton Front Guard
  • D9 Layflat
  • CRS Carbs - 120 main, 60 Pilot, 2 Turns, 2 down on Needle Clip (7 Clip Needle), 14mm Float height
  • + Other assorted bits and pieces
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Old 07-08-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Hey Guys-

Check this out:

http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.A/id.14...2&category=234

Might be just what I need. I'm finding some good opinions on it.

Thanks for all the advice. Can't wait to post pics.
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Old 07-08-2007   #9 (permalink)
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Interesting, Worth a look, but i will say I know how much time and effort goes in to polishing metal to a mirror finish and you don't want to spoil that look with a bad finish.
If it works I will be the first to order some....
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Blackjacks '07 T100
  • Raask Minizoom Rak Straight
  • NARK
  • AI Removed
  • Procom ignitor
  • Thruxton Front Guard
  • D9 Layflat
  • CRS Carbs - 120 main, 60 Pilot, 2 Turns, 2 down on Needle Clip (7 Clip Needle), 14mm Float height
  • + Other assorted bits and pieces
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Old 07-08-2007   #10 (permalink)
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Get it chromed
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