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Old 07-01-2007   #1 (permalink)
mlc
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Supersport 600
 
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Location: brisbane, australia
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an update
bike was running poorly consistently over whole rev range. cut out in the rain the otherday, even though id been thru heaps of rain before. sounded crook/missing/exhaust slapping sound.... so i emptied tank/changed plugs/drained float/put a cleaner thru fuel/balanced carbs/checked for air leaks/ airfilter ...........to no avail

back from dealer who said it was running well (dont you hate that - esp when you know it aint) unscrewed fuel cap at lights cause it was something suggested that i didnt do, and be f.ed if the bike didnt take off like a scalded cat.

still missing off idle ocassionally though - dealer did say that there were are so many failing pickup coils on the bonnies, that if it misses again theyd replace it, but the rest of the ignition system rock solid. spose i need to get a new cap - although thinking it might be the tip over valve as well/instead.

thanks for the forum suggestions - in there somewhere was the answer. yes, ok - in my dark hours was asking myself why i hadnt got a japanese bike, but after taking their loan bike for a 200km spin - a brand new GSX600, am more than convinced that even with the bonnies range of 'idiosyncratic' issues, it remains a phenomenal biking experience......

anyone else had this type of venting issue? or pickup coil problems?

[ This message was edited by: mlc on 2007-07-01 06:34 ]
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Old 07-01-2007   #2 (permalink)
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Location: Surrey . United kingdom
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I bought an after market locking cap to prevent anyone tampering with my fuel etc. (Lots of Chav's around here),
after which i had a lot of venting problems, partial vacuums interfering with fuel flow etc..

Now I use the stock cap and carry the locking one in my pocket to change to when I stop and leave the bike.

Runs fine again.

Anyone had similar experience with after market caps?.

Jon (UK)
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790cc 2003 T100 Bonneville. 18T Front Sprocket, AI Removed, 125 Mains, 40 Pilots, Thruxton Needles, 1 Shim,3mm Air Hole, Mixture screws 3 1/4 turns out left carb, 3 turns out right carb, Unifilter, NH Belmouth, NH Classic Togas with no mutes inserted, Stock Ignitor Unit. Hagon 320mm rear shocks & progressive fork springs. Last measured. 61.60 hp, , Max torque 48.40 in 5th gear at the rear wheel at 7200 rpm, 105 mph in 5th at 6500 rpm.
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Old 07-01-2007   #3 (permalink)
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Favorite Bike: '03 T-100 & '07Tiger1050
 
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I have read of more '06 owners having fuel cap venting problems than any other year. The fuel cap has a vent in it, and it sounds like it is NOT venting properly. You can check it by sucking on it with the threaded part in your mouth to see if air will pass through it. It can be disassembled with snap-ring pliers and the problem sorted out.

You also probably have a plugged overflow line from the fuel tank. If this is not stopped up, you can get venting through this line--not what it was made for, but it does work. Sometimes the bottom of the hose gets clogged in the rain and sometimes the "tip over" valve located in the overflow line (behind the carbs) gets stuck in the closed position. I would check this out thoroughly after you get your gas cap venting properly.

Some have had their gas cap replaced under warranty when it failed to vent in only a few hundred miles, and I believe the ones I have read about were on '06's.

Larry
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2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
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Old 07-01-2007   #4 (permalink)
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I was having a very similar problem; the bike was fine at lower speeds and around town but would run out of fuel when I got on the freeway and open it up for a few miles. It would sputter and die then take a while of cranking to get it started again.

My solution...take the stock fuel cap apart and drill another vent in the plastic guts of it. I did this yesterday and rode it about 40 miles trouble free. (Be sure not to drill in the middle where the clutch mechanism resides.)
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