Triumphrat

speedblastr

I know about auto's (ie:Buick elecrta Quadrojet screws) (2screws) all the way in and 1 1/2 out to start etc....RPM Gauges etc. My question is:" how do you guys know that your Air/Fuel mixture is dead on target for performance for your respective machines"?Sound? RPM? Should the screws parallell each other as far as turns or would there be different offset settings per screw ....then how do you conclude what is sufficient , I know the answer is right there in front of me somewhere but it eludes me,some things I need to learn so I need to ask questions Speed. :hammer: Motion Pro Carb tuner in the mail! :-D

[ This message was edited by: speedblastr on 2007-06-14 22:24 ]

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"At times Ya' have to hold a candle to the Devil." ~06' Blk-SpdMstr~130/40,TBS Ndls.-1Shm.,3T,AI out,Plrs-Blmth,UNI,Th-Bi.-pipes

speedblue

Unless you have very good ears you need vacuum gauges. then you set each side to the hightest vacuum at the lowest idle speed possible.Then set your idle back up.That is cutting it short,but that is basically it. If your gauges bounce around too much try restricting the lines with a small orifice in the hoses going to the carbs. This tends to help keep the needles from bouncing as much.You can also use carb sticks and follow there directions. :???: :-D Also you want to sink the carbs together while you have the gauges on there.You where just asking about the idle mix though. When sinked they both(two gauges) should move the same amount at different throttle settings. :-D Good luck!!! Important also if you use carb sticks or mercury sticks to NOT suck the mercury into the engine---this is BAD. Have fun!! :razz:

speedblastr

Not what I'm asking. I'm set at 3T. What tells me that 3.50 T is sufficient? Physically Riding,Trial and Error through Adjustment? :???:

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"At times Ya' have to hold a candle to the Devil." ~06' Blk-SpdMstr~130/40,TBS Ndls.-1Shm.,3T,AI out,Plrs-Blmth,UNI,Th-Bi.-pipes

Geoff

dyno. anything else is a guess. it may be an experienced, educated guess. but it is a guess just the same.
for 50 bucks spent on the dyno, I know my bike is running perfect, gets the best mileage it can , and wont burn a piston if I romp on it. easily worth 50 bucks
G

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I never wanted to lead, and I never wanted to follow.
I just wanted to ride

enginuity

Is anyone using a wideband oxygen sensor? I've actually got 3 of them laying around from tuning cars and I'm surprised I haven't even seen them mentioned. Or is that what you meant by "dyno," Geoff? I can see how making peak and smooth power tells you the motor is running right, but the wideband the dyno also has would be the thing to look at.

[ This message was edited by: enginuity on 2007-06-15 08:23 ]

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jared.

Geoff

I did not care about horepower (tho it was a nice jump from stock) I just wanted the dyno to give me an air/fuel ratio read-out across the whole rev band, and at static speed. which it did nicely. however, I saw my power band still climbing well at 7600 rpms where the dyno operator got out of it. I said hey, let er go to 8300- I do! he said no, we know what we have to know without bouncing off the limiter. so I got 60 rwhp and 50 ft lb torque @7600 but both still climbing.
40/140 jetting with 1 shim, 3.25 turns out on the pilots, uni pods, emgo peashooters
Smokes 883,s and annoys 1200s....
G

__________________
I never wanted to lead, and I never wanted to follow.
I just wanted to ride

enginuity

Ah.. Since I'm poor I've always found an empty stretch of road and done as much of my car tuning there as possible. Fuel injection makes it a whole lot more work.

What kind of AFRs do we need to be targeting? I'm guessing 12.5-13ish at WOT?

For anyone interested, you can get a wideband controller and sensor for about $100. I've spent the last 2 years writing open source software for tuning Subaru ECUs (www.enginuity.org) and depending on how "in to" the bike I get, I may go ahead and start working on datalogging which would give you, at the very least, a log to look back at that tells you RPM vs AFR. Not as useful with carbs as with FI, I guess, but much easier than trying to look at a tach and AFR gauge at the same time.

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jared.

ErwinM

I used Pats jet calculator to get the ball park jet requirements and I adjust the air mixture screws for minimal/no popping on decel. I inspect the plugs for propper mixture condition(rich/lean) and balance/sync the carbs after anyadjustment. My 2 cents.

Erwin

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Erwin

Geoff

yeah, 12.5 to 13. but not just at WOT. it is attainable thruout the whole rev band
G

__________________
I never wanted to lead, and I never wanted to follow.
I just wanted to ride

speedblastr

I read in Jenks....AFR13:1 The outer limits for safe running are between 12:1 and14:1. What should I do balance(sync)the carbs first then see about the Dyno for $50.00 or the other way around? I'm not trying to open up a can of worms here, just trying to take the right steps without guessing that's all. Speed. 8-) Erwin I did do Pats jet calculator. Also I may add auto's of yesterday , I have to crack a book today or grab a code scanner to figure out half of the sh-t in today's autos.

[ This message was edited by: speedblastr on 2007-06-15 16:04 ]

__________________
"At times Ya' have to hold a candle to the Devil." ~06' Blk-SpdMstr~130/40,TBS Ndls.-1Shm.,3T,AI out,Plrs-Blmth,UNI,Th-Bi.-pipes