Here's a link to all the torque specs for the bike, Go to Rear Suspension Units.
TORQUE SPECS
Here's some info I sent to another forum member last year regarding using the home made manometer. If the carb balance is way off, it's hard to use these things, because the carb pulling the most vacuum will drain the fluid from the manometer.
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Measuring Differential Vacuum Using a Manometer
August 25, 2006
As well as my home made unit has worked for me, I must agree it is very sensitive.
I balanced my carbs this morning and here's the results. I used the home made unit on my T100 (with AI kit, 125/42, UNI filter, TORs).
Description of manometer:
- total of 20' of clear tubing sized to fit tightly on T100 vacuum ports.
- loop consists of 38-40" of vertical tubing for each side of loop.
- each side of the loop contains approx 25-26" Stabil.
- manometer is hanging vertically by cord from nail in wall.
- I continue the tubing another 12-18" vertically up the wall to give myself as much wiggle room as possible.
1. I tightened up all clamp connections (they were ok).
2. connected left side of loop to left carb/rt side to right. I used the vacuum ports closest to the cyl head.
3. Set idle at 1000-1100rpm
On startup - the right carb/fluid column exhibited the most vacuum, the Stabil rose 7-8" higher in right column, with corresponding drop in left column... it is a differential measurement.
4. Barely turned screw clockwise (tightening) and it raised the right column further (with corresponding drop in left column).
5. Then turned counterclockwise (looser), which raised left column, and lowered the right column (too much)
6. A slight tweak back toward clockwise brought the two columns level with each other.
Each time I tweaked the screw, I slowly revved the engine up to approx 3500rpm, then let it drop. and gave the columns a few moments to settle out.
Just to check and see if there was any appreciable difference using the ports furthest away from the cyl head, I replugged the ports I initially used, and ran the process hooked to ports furthest away from the cyl head. Results were, naturally, the same .... vacuum is vacuum.
So - in your case, if the fluid is being sucked out the right column, turn the screw counterclockwise (looser).
If fluid is being sucked out the left column, turn the screw clockwise (tighter).
NOTE - total movement of the screw required to balance carbs was less than an eight of a turn total, probably less.
NOTE2 - I plan to visit NAPA and see if they have some sort of plastic adaptors with very small holes that would allow me to reduce the internal diameter of the tubing and (I think) slow the reaction time of the fluid loop.
I plan to make this thing workable, even when carbs are really out of balance.
Bob
Linear Mode
