Triumphrat

grayghost · 06-19-2007

I just want to add one comment for anyone using carb styx for the first time.

After the engine is warm and you have connected the rubber hoses to spigots CAREFULLY blip the throttle a few times and watch the mercury level drop and then shoot high as you close the throttle. I think this is important to understand the relationship between throttle position and the mercury level.

You DON'T want to suck mercury into the bikes intake with rough handling of the throttle. I'm not really sure if it would harm anything but it is highly toxic.

Fast_Fashion · 06-19-2007

i'm curious to see if my spare boost/vacuum gauge will work. I don't really see any reason it shouldn't.

Loxpump · 06-19-2007

I was wondering about that. Has anyone used vacuum gauges? I have a pair of gauges and I hooked them up and the needles were jumping around so much at idle they were impossible to read. They smoothed out at higher rpm but idle had wild fluctuations. I had them connected I think to the nipple on the air filter side of the carbs, not the manifold side.

badrufus · 06-19-2007

Loxpump: the carb sticks and my CarbTune are damped. If you look on the CarbTune website, you can see their instructions for damping the tubes that run to the carbs/manifold. You have to do that to avoid the jumping around you're getting.

mlc · 06-20-2007

thanks for the great info

is an accurate idle rpm critical? as i dont have a tacho

also, as Carbtune II is $175.00 here in oz., i was going to give the home-made balancer a go - or should i just pop for the carbtune or similar proprietary item given my basic mech. experience?

sweatmachine · 06-20-2007

you want the idle to be high, 1500-2000 rpms, so you'll need to adjust it higher.

The home made versions are a real pain in the ass to use, I have made a few and used them, but they don't really work that well.

I just bought the real deal and it is a breeze to use, and fast. Go for the good one.

BILLYSIM · 06-20-2007

Quote:

On 2007-06-14 17:26, ohiorider wrote:

Just to check and see if there was any appreciable difference using the ports furthest away from the cyl head, I replugged the ports I initially used, and ran the process hooked to ports furthest away from the cyl head. Results were, naturally, the same .... vacuum is vacuum.

If readings are the same why are there four ports :???:

[ This message was edited by: BILLYSIM on 2007-06-20 07:12 ]

unitedrocker · 06-20-2007

Noticed there is a SLIGHT variation on low idle and proper 1500 RPM sync marks. Lower RPM seems to offset at about this much __ :-D on the right. Mix adjusting did nothing. I don't think it's too much of a big deal, but at 1500 it was spot on both sides. Anyone else see this?

Also - seems my 40 pilots are a little small... (Thrux with Jenks settings and chopped box with BC's) Takes off with hesitation, but at around 2500 RPM she pulls like an SOB! Messing with the mix didn't seem to do much, so I'll try running a set of 42's today. Sound like the right direction?

[ This message was edited by: unitedrocker on 2007-06-20 08:45 ]

sweatmachine · 06-20-2007

Quote:

On 2007-06-20 08:42, unitedrocker wrote:
Messing with the mix didn't seem to do much, so I'll try running a set of 42's today. Sound like the right direction?

It could help, but you'll have to tweak the idle mix again.

mjs3800 · 06-20-2007

> Could this be a problem with your carbstix instrument itself?

Bob<

Bob, I have the Motion Pro vacuum carb sync stick and I think I have found out what the problem may be. I have read that the vent needs to be open during the process. I had it closed. Hopefully that is it.