Triumphrat

HampdenRat

Are the Rubber pads on the sides of the Bonnie Tank secured with glue? Has anyone removed them? I think it would look pretty boss, kinda like the older Bonnies without them.

Thanks In Advance.

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***The Unholy Swarm***

lindsayt

Heh. Those of us who buy standard Bonnies (which don't include the rubber knee pads) pay perfectly good money to *put them on*...

Yes, they're just held on with an adhesive. I haven't taken them off, but from removing similar things, I think you'd want to heat it (gently - remember that tank is full of combustible gasoline) with a hair dryer to get the glue softened, then use a piece of fishing line between the rubber and the side of the tank to take it off. Be really careful since it's painted underneath the knee pad, and you'd hate to damage the paint. Once it's off, use something like goo-gone to clean up the remaining adhesive. Wash thoroughly, then wax.

Be aware that if the bike isn't new (I'm assuming it isn't) there's a good chance that the paint underneath the knee pads, never being exposed to the sun, will be a different color than the rest of the tank, which has faded in the sun. If it's a white T-100, it probably won't be very noticeable; but any other color, and you might want to watch for that.

If you bought the bike new and didn't like the knee pads, you should've saved some bucks and bought the regular Bonnie instead of the T-100 :razz:

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2005 Aegean Blue Bonneville - stock, Ikon front fork springs

HampdenRat

Thanks for the info- fishing line, eh?

Yeah, prolly should have just gotten the standard, but the black and red T-100 seduced me on the showroom floor ;-)

You want my rubber pads? :razz:

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***The Unholy Swarm***

4Triumph

HampdenRat
Ya, I do. You have mail

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Baltobonneville

Hampden, one reason that I bought the standard Bonnie was so I wouldn't get those knee pads. I just don't like them, and I think that they'll degenerate faster than the rest of the bike over time.

No arguments with them on the classic bikes, or with anyone who likes them. I just don't want them on my New Bonneville.

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Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes RC, Unifilter, no snorkel, 120/40/Thrux needle/1 shim/3 turns, fly screen, tacho, D9 gauge panel, center stand, Ikon 7610s, Hagon fork springs, gaiters, Pirelli Sport Demons, 3 seats.

CAPTDON

Try a post on parts. Maybe some one wants the pads if the tank is in good shape?? Just a thought. Beats the he** oughta all that work & may make some one else happy as well? @ timesI would like them- nostalgia. Thats why I posted a possible magnetic option? I really think they complete the full retrolook- but I wouldnt want them 24/7.
I agree that they might degrade quicker? Maybe some armor all or something similar will keep them as nice as the tank?
:???:

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CAPT D

HampdenRat

The pads have been spoken for- now to get them off. . .I'll let you know how it went.

After seeing a bunch of great older Triumphs at Triumph come home over the weekend in PA that didn't have them, I decided that mine might look good without them. That line in the tank just looks so striking. . . I saw a Trump bobber with a p-nut tank up there too, and it made me wanna weep. The other thing I like about the older tanks is the lack of a metal stamp line at the bottom of the tank. Did folks trim that off as a mod or were they truly without it? Hmm. . .

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***The Unholy Swarm***

Baltobonneville

Disclaimer: I don't know how safe this procedure is. Maybe you should drain the tank completely.

If you decide to use a hair dryer to heat the tank, make sure that the fuel is quite low. Otherwise it will act as a heat sink and keep the work area relatively cool.

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Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes RC, Unifilter, no snorkel, 120/40/Thrux needle/1 shim/3 turns, fly screen, tacho, D9 gauge panel, center stand, Ikon 7610s, Hagon fork springs, gaiters, Pirelli Sport Demons, 3 seats.

Blackjack

HampdenRat fear not it is a very simple process and no more than a 10 minute job -
Forget the fishing line. If you got tjr paint too hot, you risk cutting in to it. Very unlikely but why introduce a third party and it likely to leave mor glue on the tank rather then where you want it, on the rubber.

Grab your old ladies hair dryer and start at the smaller end i.e. closest to the seat - don't worry too much about heat. How hot would a black tank get in the sitting in the midday sun?

Anyhue you don't need much heat 30 seconds is plenty...

Heat the rubber directly and the seam between the rubber and the tank and then just peel off the back edge of the rubber with your fingers, you will feel when it starts to resist so just heat up the rubber for 10 or 15 secs in front of where your peeling, keep all four fingers in behind the rubber and you should be able to steadily remove without leaving any glue on the tank and only on the rubber. On the first side I left a small piece of glue about the size of a 20c piece, the second side none at all, a little more hot air on the remaining glue and roll it off, dead simple......

No goo gone required just clean er up and a bit of Meguiars tech wax jobs done.

I will get some better photos up, but here is a sneak peak..



[ This message was edited by: Blackjack on 2007-06-13 07:13 ]

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Blackjacks '07 T100

• Raask Minizoom Rak Straight
• NARK
• AI Removed
• Procom ignitor
• Thruxton Front Guard
• D9 Layflat
• CRS Carbs - 120 main, 60 Pilot, 2 Turns, 2 down on Needle Clip (7 Clip Needle), 14mm Float height
• + Other assorted bits and pieces

SP9009

Heat is key!!