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Old 06-10-2007   #1 (permalink)
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So my and my Haynes manual made short work of the front brake pad replacement this weekend. Couldn't have been more than 30 min start to finish.

Thus encouraged, I'm thinking I could take on the valve adjustment at 12K miles - probably in the spring.

In a relative sense, would you guys say the valve work is 2x, 3x or 5x the degree of difficulty of the front pad replacement? Basically are the valves something I could handle myself with any degree of confidence or am I better off going round to the shop?

Thoughts....

P
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Old 06-10-2007   #2 (permalink)
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Tough question. The answer may depend on how much wrenching experience you have ... native mechanical ability and understanding. And the answer definitely depends on whether you simply need to check valve clearances (and they're ok) or whether you need to pull the camshafts to change shims. These are two different issues entirely.

I'd say if you're comfortable removing the fuel tank and the cam cover, (and replacing them), there's nothing you can hurt checking the valve clearance. It is an easy job once you have the cam cover removed.

Re: pulling and replacing the camshafts if you need to replace any shims (after determining what thickness shim(s) you need), well .... I can only suggest you read the manual and truly understand what it is saying, including the stuff about documenting valve clearance, calculating the new shim, and the bolt untightening/retightening sequemce.

It ain't a brake job, that's for sure.

Bob


[ This message was edited by: ohiorider on 2007-06-10 20:23 ]
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Old 06-10-2007   #3 (permalink)
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I presume that when you were done with the brake job you were, without actually testing the brakes, absolutely sure that the job was right because you knew before you started just what had to be done and how it was to be done, and you had the tools, parts, and supplies needed.
If you take that approach to the valves, you'll be OK. Understand the job as completely as you can before starting, take your time, etc. Uncertainty is the first sign danger - just stop, come to the forum and get your answer.
It's important to have a good set of hands, but more important to have a good mind and be sure at every step.
Go for it!
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Old 06-10-2007   #4 (permalink)
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the valve adj is really not that difficult or time consuming. It is a bit dangerous, in the sense that if you do anything wrong (ie, drop something down in the motor, or time the motor incorreectly) you will cause extreme motor damage. Kinda like leaving the safety of the US of A, and entering a dangerous 3rd world country. You can cause extreme damage.

However, knowing what to do and realizing the dire consequences of your actions will go a long way. Read the manual, understand it, stop and ask questions along the way and you'll be just fine.

There are a few of us here on the forum that have been there, hell I'll give you my phone number and talk you through the whole process if you like, we're willing to help.

I say go for it. Even if you have to pull the cams, the whole ordeal should be a 2-3 hour job if your dealership has the shims in stock. Just be aware, and careful.
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Old 06-10-2007   #5 (permalink)
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For some perspective, with the range of 1-10 with 1 being the easiest to accomplish:
Oil change - 2
Brake Pad change - 3
Valve shim adjustment - 6

Having all the right tools is an absolute must (micrometer, a GOOD torque wrench, antilash pins). I used a substitute for the backlash pins and that almost created a big problem.

I have not seen the Haynes manual, but bet you'll want the factory service manual for this job.

[ This message was edited by: ssjones on 2007-06-10 21:59 ]
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Old 06-11-2007   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2007-06-10 21:58, ssjones wrote:
For some perspective, with the range of 1-10 with 1 being the easiest to accomplish:
Oil change - 2
Brake Pad change - 3
Valve shim adjustment - 6

Having all the right tools is an absolute must (micrometer, a GOOD torque wrench, antilash pins). I used a substitute for the backlash pins and that almost created a big problem.

I have not seen the Haynes manual, but bet you'll want the factory service manual for this job.
all good points, I'd recommend having both manuals. The micrometer is a must-have.
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Old 06-11-2007   #7 (permalink)
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If you can read and understand what the manual says then you will have no problems. There is no mistery in doing the valves. Should take you about an hour to hour and a half. I have been able to do them in an hour. You will be surprised at how easy this engine is to work on.
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Old 06-11-2007   #8 (permalink)
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These comments sound right to me and suggest:

Plan A:
Pull the head covers and measure the clearances. If all is within spec, put the covers back on and call it a day.

For those out there who recall the results of your valve measurements at 12K miles, did you need to replace any shims? I'm just kind of wondering about the probability of going to Plan B?

Again - thoughts, or even wild guesses, are appreciated

P
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Old 06-11-2007   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
On 2007-06-11 11:44, SpeedyPete wrote:
These comments sound right to me and suggest:

Plan A:
Pull the head covers and measure the clearances. If all is within spec, put the covers back on and call it a day.

For those out there who recall the results of your valve measurements at 12K miles, did you need to replace any shims? I'm just kind of wondering about the probability of going to Plan B?

Again - thoughts, or even wild guesses, are appreciated

P
I say you have a 50/50 chance of going to plan B. Most likely a few shims will need to be replaced.
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Old 06-11-2007   #10 (permalink)
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The Haynes manual has a thorough description of how to do this job, FYI.

I did the 12k check and found all but two of the valves to be within spec. The remaining two were so close to spec that I didn't bother adjusting them (after consulting with my dealer; in the meantime an independent motorcycle mechanic has concurred). I'm now at almost 17k and will be checking the clearances again soon.

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