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| Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for Hinckley Triumph Twins: Bonneville, T100, Speedmaster, America, Thruxton, and Scrambler |
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06-10-2007
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#1 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 718
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So my and my Haynes manual made short work of the front brake pad replacement this weekend. Couldn't have been more than 30 min start to finish.
Thus encouraged, I'm thinking I could take on the valve adjustment at 12K miles - probably in the spring.
In a relative sense, would you guys say the valve work is 2x, 3x or 5x the degree of difficulty of the front pad replacement? Basically are the valves something I could handle myself with any degree of confidence or am I better off going round to the shop?
Thoughts....
P
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06-10-2007
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#2 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Team Owner Favorite Bike: 2003 T100
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Hudson, Ohio - USA
Posts: 3,875 Other Motorcycle: 1991 BMW R100GS Extra Motorcycle: No more at present time
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Tough question. The answer may depend on how much wrenching experience you have ... native mechanical ability and understanding. And the answer definitely depends on whether you simply need to check valve clearances (and they're ok) or whether you need to pull the camshafts to change shims. These are two different issues entirely.
I'd say if you're comfortable removing the fuel tank and the cam cover, (and replacing them), there's nothing you can hurt checking the valve clearance. It is an easy job once you have the cam cover removed.
Re: pulling and replacing the camshafts if you need to replace any shims (after determining what thickness shim(s) you need), well .... I can only suggest you read the manual and truly understand what it is saying, including the stuff about documenting valve clearance, calculating the new shim, and the bolt untightening/retightening sequemce.
It ain't a brake job, that's for sure.
Bob
[ This message was edited by: ohiorider on 2007-06-10 20:23 ]
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2003 T100 (790cc) Lucifer Org and Silv: 122/42 jets, TORs, 17T, UNI filter, no AI, Polaris bellmouth, Metzeler ME880 tires, Progressive 440 shocks (105/150 springs),11-1126 fork springs, gaiters, MotoTwin low bars, 6024 lamp, htd grips, 12v outlet.
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06-10-2007
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#3 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: nyc
Posts: 426
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I presume that when you were done with the brake job you were, without actually testing the brakes, absolutely sure that the job was right because you knew before you started just what had to be done and how it was to be done, and you had the tools, parts, and supplies needed.
If you take that approach to the valves, you'll be OK. Understand the job as completely as you can before starting, take your time, etc. Uncertainty is the first sign danger - just stop, come to the forum and get your answer.
It's important to have a good set of hands, but more important to have a good mind and be sure at every step.
Go for it!
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06-10-2007
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#4 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Site Supporter Retired Legend Favorite Bike: 904cc Bonnie w/magwheels
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 9,525
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the valve adj is really not that difficult or time consuming. It is a bit dangerous, in the sense that if you do anything wrong (ie, drop something down in the motor, or time the motor incorreectly) you will cause extreme motor damage. Kinda like leaving the safety of the US of A, and entering a dangerous 3rd world country. You can cause extreme damage.
However, knowing what to do and realizing the dire consequences of your actions will go a long way. Read the manual, understand it, stop and ask questions along the way and you'll be just fine.
There are a few of us here on the forum that have been there, hell I'll give you my phone number and talk you through the whole process if you like, we're willing to help.
I say go for it. Even if you have to pull the cams, the whole ordeal should be a 2-3 hour job if your dealership has the shims in stock. Just be aware, and careful.
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06-10-2007
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#5 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hagerstown, Maryland
Posts: 1,297 Other Motorcycle: 66 Bonnie Chop
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For some perspective, with the range of 1-10 with 1 being the easiest to accomplish:
Oil change - 2
Brake Pad change - 3
Valve shim adjustment - 6
Having all the right tools is an absolute must (micrometer, a GOOD torque wrench, antilash pins). I used a substitute for the backlash pins and that almost created a big problem.
I have not seen the Haynes manual, but bet you'll want the factory service manual for this job.
[ This message was edited by: ssjones on 2007-06-10 21:59 ]
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Al
66 Bonneville Chopper - The Beast
02 Bonneville America - Beauty
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06-11-2007
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#6 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Site Supporter Retired Legend Favorite Bike: 904cc Bonnie w/magwheels
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 9,525
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Quote:
On 2007-06-10 21:58, ssjones wrote:
For some perspective, with the range of 1-10 with 1 being the easiest to accomplish:
Oil change - 2
Brake Pad change - 3
Valve shim adjustment - 6
Having all the right tools is an absolute must (micrometer, a GOOD torque wrench, antilash pins). I used a substitute for the backlash pins and that almost created a big problem.
I have not seen the Haynes manual, but bet you'll want the factory service manual for this job.
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all good points, I'd recommend having both manuals. The micrometer is a must-have.
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06-11-2007
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#7 (permalink)
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Member
Grand Prix 125
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Edmonds, Washington
Posts: 37
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If you can read and understand what the manual says then you will have no problems. There is no mistery in doing the valves. Should take you about an hour to hour and a half. I have been able to do them in an hour. You will be surprised at how easy this engine is to work on.
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06-11-2007
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#8 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Formula Extreme
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: White Plains, NY
Posts: 718
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These comments sound right to me and suggest:
Plan A:
Pull the head covers and measure the clearances. If all is within spec, put the covers back on and call it a day.
For those out there who recall the results of your valve measurements at 12K miles, did you need to replace any shims? I'm just kind of wondering about the probability of going to Plan B?
Again - thoughts, or even wild guesses, are appreciated
P
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I have heard the song of the Sausage Creature!
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06-11-2007
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#9 (permalink)
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Senior Member
Site Supporter Retired Legend Favorite Bike: 904cc Bonnie w/magwheels
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 9,525
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Quote:
On 2007-06-11 11:44, SpeedyPete wrote:
These comments sound right to me and suggest:
Plan A:
Pull the head covers and measure the clearances. If all is within spec, put the covers back on and call it a day.
For those out there who recall the results of your valve measurements at 12K miles, did you need to replace any shims? I'm just kind of wondering about the probability of going to Plan B?
Again - thoughts, or even wild guesses, are appreciated
P
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I say you have a 50/50 chance of going to plan B. Most likely a few shims will need to be replaced.
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06-11-2007
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#10 (permalink)
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Senior Member
SuperSport Favorite Bike: 2001 Bonneville (cafe)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Burlington, Vermont
Posts: 1,223 Other Motorcycle: 2003 Honda XR650L Extra Motorcycle: 2008 Suzuki V-Strom 650
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The Haynes manual has a thorough description of how to do this job, FYI.
I did the 12k check and found all but two of the valves to be within spec. The remaining two were so close to spec that I didn't bother adjusting them (after consulting with my dealer; in the meantime an independent motorcycle mechanic has concurred). I'm now at almost 17k and will be checking the clearances again soon.
--mark
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Bennington, VT May 29-31, 2009
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