Triumphrat

TOMKRILL · 05-29-2007

It says in the book that the chain tightness should be measured with the bike resting on the side stand, pushing up from the bottom toward the inside of the chain loop. If I do that it seems to be relatively loose. But, if I push it down (away from in inner chain it seems fairly tight. I lube my chain every 4-500 miles. If I ride (and I am not a lightweight) doesn't the chain need to be slack/loose enough when I am riding and hit a bump for example? It seems to me, if I read Haynes Manual and then just check the chain without trying to measure precisely, just a close visual, it seems to be just fine? Am I stupid? If it is too loose, are there noises I'd hear or anything else?? :???:

Geoff · 05-29-2007

They have the chain spec figured out, so that if you measure by the book i.e. on the sidestand, from the place they specify, then your chain will be able to react the way it should in different situations.
I use a wooden ruler stood on the ground next to the chain, real easy to see when the chain deflects about 1 inch, which is a good place to set it
G

firie9 · 05-29-2007

Yesterday I changed to a 17 tooth counter sprocket and in the process I cleaned and re-adjusted my chain.

I find the marks on both sides of the swingarm are hard to read so I use a micro gauge (you know the gauges for measuring thickness of shims etc) between the 2 marks on the photo. Just thought you might be interested as it is probably the most accurate way to ensure the wheel isn't skewiff.

BTW, thanks for the idea of the ruler for determining chain tension. I'll use that one myself now.[img]<a href=[/img]

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Geoff · 05-29-2007

No charge, either! However, your way of truing the back wheel, while sound in theory, assumes that both sides of the swingarm are exactly the same length, and that the adjusters are exactly the same and set in the exact same position on both sides, which in the actual world of motorcycling could be rare. The nifty little laser sight (expensive) or the mechanical version that draws a straight line between the rear and front sprocket, are a better bet. Having said all that, I just eye-balled mine and called it good. I think I may buy the tool, tho, for 25 bucks its not bad.
G

BorgCymru · 06-14-2007

Focus here in the UK do a laser thing for £9.99 and is magnetic. B&Q do them as well

gerryd01 · 06-14-2007

Hello Tom
The method explained by Geoff ( Super sport) is spot on and very easy.
The other additional point of interest Re Chain Lube. here in Oz we have a lubricant called "Maxima Lubricants Chain Wax" it is excellent. Just warm the chain up with a 5 minute ride, liberally apply the Maxima Chain Wax and then let it sit for 10 minutes before you use it and hey presto. No Fling Off what so ever and it's good for around 1000 t o`1200 miles or just over 2000 Klms providing you haven't been in a lot of rain. If it's wet then you don't get quite the same distance.

Rgds
Gerry D

Silverado57 · 06-14-2007

Say Geoff, what ever happened to that NJ Tech day?

Normandy · 06-15-2007

"If too loose, are there noises I'd hear or anything else"

I notice the slop in the chain when shifting and adjust then. I also keep my chain on the loose side so as not to stress the chain or sprocket bearing.

Geoff · 06-15-2007

Nobody was interested enough to firm up a date and do it. I suggested a date and nobody replied.
I would do it if there was any interest, tho. Got a plan?
G

alfacliff · 06-15-2007

on truing the rear tire, adjust the axle adjusters to get the rear tire centered between the swingarms. the marks may not be correct if the adjusters have been removed or changed.
cliff