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Old 05-21-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Production 125
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Murrieta, CA
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hello, first timer on this website and it's been real helpful.
My problem is that inside the headlight casing there's a clamp that holds the wire bundles down, well with vibration it cut through it, causing a short (check yours might be cutting through also) and I think it damaged my rectifier, because after that my Bonni will die, I would check for volatge and its only giving me about 12:35-12:70 when it should be atleast 14:00. A new rectifier cost close to $300.00, is there an aftermarket one that's available? without costing an arm and a leg? Please advise.
thank You
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Old 05-21-2007   #2 (permalink)
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New one on me! I will have to check it out! There has to be a way to check out the rectifier to see any dammage? Let all know. It might turn out to be a future problem?I know not to block it from air- dam thing gets hot!! :???:
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Old 05-22-2007   #3 (permalink)
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I am assuming your voltage readings indicated were whilst reving the engine well above idle? If not try again, if so you may well be hosed. Not sure how universal a regulator rectifier is but would love to know. surely some smart person will chime in??
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Old 05-22-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Let me save you some $$$$.

Step one, download this troubleshooting tree http://www.electrosport.com/electros...t_finding.html and complete every step.

I am having a similar if not identical problem and I thought I needed a new R/R so I bought a model RR155 (non OEM) replacement from http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/#1X0. It works fine and is half the cost of an OEM (Triumph) part but it didn't fix the problem.

It looks like the low voltage output is because of a bad Stator (a $400 part from Triumph with no non-OEM replacement available). I have temporarily "fixed" the problem by reducing the demand on the alternator to a level that the weak stator can sustain. How? I wired a switch on the headlight and I turn it off when I ride in bright daylight, I only ride in bright daylight. I like the look of the switch on the headlight bullet. It's identical to both the Trophy and the Tiger I owned in the '70's.

At my next oil change I intend to take the stator off and take it to an alternator / starter repair shop to see if they can rewind it economically.

Good luck and keep me posted on your progress. I'll let you know how I fare with a rewind if and when I have that done.

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Old 05-22-2007   #5 (permalink)
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I have a stator for you, $100 plus shipping from Sweden. I don't use them on my dragbikes. If you have a spare crank I'll trade you

Quote:
On 2007-05-22 17:05, PUKKA wrote:
Let me save you some $$$$.

Step one, download this troubleshooting tree http://www.electrosport.com/electros...t_finding.html and complete every step.

I am having a similar if not identical problem and I thought I needed a new R/R so I bought a model RR155 (non OEM) replacement from http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/#1X0. It works fine and is half the cost of an OEM (Triumph) part but it didn't fix the problem.

It looks like the low voltage output is because of a bad Stator (a $400 part from Triumph with no non-OEM replacement available). I have temporarily "fixed" the problem by reducing the demand on the alternator to a level that the weak stator can sustain. How? I wired a switch on the headlight and I turn it off when I ride in bright daylight, I only ride in bright daylight. I like the look of the switch on the headlight bullet. It's identical to both the Trophy and the Tiger I owned in the '70's.

At my next oil change I intend to take the stator off and take it to an alternator / starter repair shop to see if they can rewind it economically.

Good luck and keep me posted on your progress. I'll let you know how I fare with a rewind if and when I have that done.
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Old 05-22-2007   #6 (permalink)
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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jojje1963,

$100 plus shipping, you are my hero! Shipping will be to San Antonio, TX. The Zip code is 78260.

I am having trouble sending a private email through TriumphRAT so, let me know the total cost and how I can get the money to you. My email is brrath@satx.rr.com

Thanks,

Brad Rath
San Antonio, TX
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Old 05-23-2007   #7 (permalink)
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Guys it's probably worth mentioning to the folk who read this thread that the Bonnie doesn't use a "standard" alternator like you would find in a car, so the rectifier and regulator work differently. Most alternators today have a powered stator field that is controlled by the regulator. The Bonnie uses permanent magnets instead and controls the voltage via a regulator circuit. Thats the one of the reasons why the finned unit gets so hot. The other is the normal heat generated by the 3 phase being converted to DC. google alternators and you will find a lot of good info.

cheers
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