Triumphrat

badrufus · 05-08-2007

I just finished installing Jenks new velocity stack and had to change my main jets from 120s to 125s. While I was doing it, I had the little camera out and I thought it might be helpful to provide some shots of the tools I have put together to work on the Bonnie. A lot of folks ask what to use, so this is my kit. In the first photo, starting with the tin can and moving approximately clockwise, the can is to catch fuel when I drain the float bowls; the fuel line is to attach to the float bowl nipple and drain the fuel into the can. It's a 3/16" ID fuel line. Next are the old 120 main jets; then a pair of small needle nose pliers that I use to retrieve the inevitable float bowl screw that falls into some recess on top of the engine; to the left of that is a ratchet which I use to loosen the float bowl screw that allows the fuel to flow out; next to it is a 3" extension that comes in handy for this task; just below the extension is a newbonneville.com D tool for adjusting the idle mix screws; below that is a nifty and crucial little ratchet. It accepts hex bits. It is used, with the appropriate bit, for removing the 3mm hex head screws that hold the float bowls in place and for removing the main jets with a slotted driver bit. It's shown with a 3mm hex head extended bit. I have found that each of the eight float bowl screws requires a slightly different length of tool. Sometimes I put a short hex head bit in the ratchet. Below that is a small tube of dielectric tune-up grease, which I apply before putting the two electrical fittings back on the bottom of each carb. Next is a pair of small needlenose visegrips and a slotted driver; they are used to remove the pilot jets. The driver is the tip of a small screwdriver, cut off and filed to fit in the recess. To the right of the visegrips, there is an 8mm wrench for holding the main jet holder in place. Finally, there are two thumbscrews, little tools that come in very handy for several tasks. They hold hex head bits also. The purple one has a 3mm hex head bit with extension in it; while the blue one has a slotted driver bit for the main jets. In the detail shot, the thumbscrews are shown (available at Sears plus many other stores) and the visegrip/screwdriver tip set-up is shown. I also must admit that when I work on the carbs, I often put on one of those nerdy lamps that straps to your head. It's very bright and can be directed anywhere.

bricktop · 05-08-2007

great post, thanks heaps.

Baltobonneville · 05-09-2007

:gpst: The mini-ratchet is a useful tool. I just had my tank off to relocate the horn, and replaced the carb screws while I could get at them more easily. A JIS #2 Phillips and the mini-ratchet for where the screwdriver didn't fit took them out easily.

Another useful item for the mini-ratchet is a magnetic bit extender to get a couple inches extra reach.

Geoff · 05-10-2007

I have one of those pro motion 90 degree screwdrivers I got for reaching the inner carbys of my old cb750, and now comes in handy for balance screw as well as being able to adjust the d-screws while its hot in there.
A few years back it was50 bucks, which I thought was expensive, now of course its worse
G

badrufus · 05-10-2007

I use the mini-ratchet with the long phillips-head bit to reach the carb synch screw. Course I do it with gloves on, otherwise I'd have scalded hands. I had always removed the tank and hooked up a Motion-Pro Auxilliary tank to synch the carbs. Yesterday I had to synch the carbs, and I decided to try it with the tank on using the mini-ratchet. Easy-peasy. Done in minutes. I do find that adjusting the LH carb idle mix screw with the D tool is difficult, and am ordering a pair of the idle mix screws that extend down and end in a knurled knob so you can adjust the screws without tools (NB).