Triumphrat

stu · 04-11-2007

We all ***** about those cheesy philips screws in the carbs, so I was interested to see an article in this month's Motorcyclist about this. I was unaware you need a Japanese Philips screwdriver DIN/ISO 5260. The article states any attempt to use an American #1 or #2 Philips will strip the head. The correct drivers can be obtained from www.katun.com or amessupply.com

Loxpump · 04-11-2007

Now we need metric screwdrivers also! Allens still make sense and works better for repeated removals.

TCL · 04-11-2007

Man, everyone acts like those things are made of butter or something. Yes they are soft, and yes, I did install allen heads once I got them off, but if you remove the tank and apply pressure directly down into the middle of the screw while you twist, it is not that hard to get off. I'll stick with my Craftsman American screwdrivers and some elbow grease. But have fun with the Japanese ones if you can bear to wait that long to dig into your carbs. :-D

Loxpump · 04-11-2007

Craftsman American 18mm Combination wrench, bought at Sears a while ago.

But not always American made. Here's the other side.

And I have had this set for 30 years.

[ This message was edited by: Loxpump on 2007-04-11 18:29 ]

bonnevillebilly · 04-11-2007

The ones on the top were no problem it was the ones on
the bottom for the bowels. Those where a real !*)#@!*
to get out. The stainless allenheads make the job a hole
lot easier.
Bill

ohiorider · 04-11-2007

I'm thinking a ball-end Allen would make it even easier for those who have already replaced the Phillips head screws with Allen heads.

However, Stu makes a good point, and offers good advice (correct driver and where to find it) for someone who may not do the carb work next week, but next month. Maybe they'll be able to run down a DIN-spec screwdriver and save themselves a lot of pain and cursing while removing the screws the first time.

At least most of the tools are available to us today. I remember back in the early 60's (that's 1960, not 1860), how difficult is often was to even find metric tools. Can't tell you how many sockets I owned in the odd, in-between 1/32" increments, and how many bolt heads I ground down so I could put them back using an SAE socket.

Bob

Panthermark · 04-11-2007

The stock screws are awful.
Sorry TCL, but some of tougher to remove than others. Two of mine were on so tight that I had to remove the carbs to be able to get the leverage needed to remove them.

BILLYSIM · 04-11-2007

Top screws...pull the tank and get a driver that fits... (I used a micro impact setup) ...no sweat...

Bottom screws...after reading all the headaches of others, I decided to get several lengths of quality phillips bits (that fit!) and then took a piece of maple stock and drilled several countersinks at different depths and locations (experiment here) ...then a little cheapie 1/4" ratchet that the bits go in, and, slide THROUGH.
Now, you can pick the bit, slide it in the cheapie ratchet, pick a counter sink hole for the base of the bit, and pry up with the maple stick off any convenient bit of motor, slide the ratchet to your best hand position... and they pop right out.
With this rig you can get perfectly straight up pressure, and all the torque you need. Just use bits that fit...

...or plan B...have the dealer put in your allen heads and save the chunk of maple for the firebox :-D ...Billy

Loxpump · 04-11-2007

If your airbox is gone removing the carbs is a cinch. I don't even consider messing with them any other way.

TCL · 04-11-2007

+1, maybe that's why mine weren't that hard. I do sympathize with those with problems. +1 on the ball head allen wrench too, makes carbs and seat removal much easier on these bikes.