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Old 03-13-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Hey Guys

Sorry if I'm being obvious but to anyone who's lowering their bike, needs to remember to take the side stand into account, the bike won't lean over as far as it used to, so it may be risky if its parked that way.

Heaving it up onto a centre stand will take more effort if the bikes been lowered, and the centre stand may cause problems with the ground clearance.

I'd be interested to know how a lowered bike performs in regard to this matter of the centre stand,

Does it ground out in corners etc?

If anyones has a centre stand on a lowered bike I'd be interested to know about any problems you may have had as I'm considering doing this myself.

I'm lowering the suspension down 20mm at the back with Hagon road shocks and 22mm at the front with the Mecatwin fork spacing and shroud cover kit and Hagon progressive fork springs.

I already have the parts, so I'm praying you guys have the answers, failing that I'll know myself soon enough and I'll tell you, in the mean time I'll do my best to stay out of hospital or dent my bike...lol

So to any dealers or fabricators out there, ( Mike at BellaCorse , Brent at NewBonneville or Peter Jenks in the UK...hint ...hint ) maybe there a marketing opportunity for a modified side stand in keeping with the original.

Failing that is the metal on the current side stand able to be welded in a cut and shut job?

All the best

Jon (UK)
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790cc 2003 T100 Bonneville. 18T Front Sprocket, AI Removed, 125 Mains, 40 Pilots, Thruxton Needles, 1 Shim,3mm Air Hole, Mixture screws 3 1/4 turns out left carb, 3 turns out right carb, Unifilter, NH Belmouth, NH Classic Togas with no mutes inserted, Stock Ignitor Unit. Hagon 320mm rear shocks & progressive fork springs. Last measured. 61.60 hp, , Max torque 48.40 in 5th gear at the rear wheel at 7200 rpm, 105 mph in 5th at 6500 rpm.
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Old 03-14-2007   #2 (permalink)
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Well it isn't a road test but a quick static check.

Bike is lowered 30mm in the rear with Classic Hagons, and lowered about 20mm in the front by sliding the fork tubes up.

Please forgive picture quality, it was dark outside, I have poor lighting in the garage, and a relatively inexperienced photographer. So much for the disclaimers.

Here's bike on the side stand. Still has a bit of a lean and doesn't feel like it would topple, assuming you are on level ground. In stead of cutting and welding I would think one could put a slight bend in it to give the bike more lean without it sticking out too far when up.




Here's bike leaning over with pegs about 30-40mm from touching the ground. The center stand was actually farther from touching and would not touch without grinding the pegs first.



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Old 03-14-2007   #3 (permalink)
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I lowered my Fazer..... you simply gotta do something about that side-stand, or it's gonna get blown over and/or you won't be able to park it in some situations. It's a bit of a gamble, but reducing it by about a half inch might be enough..... or not.

The center-stand is not a problem..... pulling your bike UP ONTO THE CENTER-STAND might be a bit of a struggle though.

It's a given that lowering the bike will reduce clearances you had prior. But if you set your suspension up correctly, it shouldn't be too much of a problem unless you're a road racer. I actually touched down quite often on the Fazer before addressing the suspension. I was heavy, and the suspension soft. I spent over $800.00 for new springs front and rear, had the rear shock re-valved, and had the internals lowered an inch. With the improved suspension, even after lowering it..... I have yet to touch any hard parts down (well, there was that long 100 mph sweeper on Monitor Pass.....).

Don't trust that side-stand...... well, the Bonnie actually leans quite a bit on the factory stand as it is though, doesn't it....? If you have any doubt, cut it down a little.
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Old 03-15-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Hey Lox - did some bonehead run off with your headlamp?

:-D :-D :-D

Cheers,

D9



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Old 03-15-2007   #5 (permalink)
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I don't think I'll be doing any 100mph knee dragging sweepers, or be leaning it over anywhere close to scraping the pegs. Depending on the parking surface I may have to find the right spot to use the side stand. I may try giving the side stand a bend first. The headlight is on the bench, I thought taking it out would make it lighter to lean the bike over. I think I did a good job of hiding my straining. Dang things are heavy!
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Old 03-16-2007   #6 (permalink)
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Jon,
My Bonneville has the rear end lowered 30mm with Hagon Classic Road Shocks, which enables me to put both feet firmly on the ground, at last.
Although I have to be careful where I park with the side stand, I shortened my centre stand by cutting out 30mm and welding up. With the original stand, it was absolutely impossible to pull the bike on to the stand, but it is now fine.
The centre stand catches on the road before the pegs, and I need to ride solo on the middle setting, and with pillion on the hardest setting.
It is cornering on bumpy roads that causes the stand to ground.

Regards,

David
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Old 03-17-2007   #7 (permalink)
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Loxpump

Thanks for going to such strenuous lenghts to demonstrate the practicalities of the side stand issue.

It's much appreciated, you can shower, eat, rest and go drinking now. "Mines a pint of Guiness" cheers.

all the best

JON (UK)
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790cc 2003 T100 Bonneville. 18T Front Sprocket, AI Removed, 125 Mains, 40 Pilots, Thruxton Needles, 1 Shim,3mm Air Hole, Mixture screws 3 1/4 turns out left carb, 3 turns out right carb, Unifilter, NH Belmouth, NH Classic Togas with no mutes inserted, Stock Ignitor Unit. Hagon 320mm rear shocks & progressive fork springs. Last measured. 61.60 hp, , Max torque 48.40 in 5th gear at the rear wheel at 7200 rpm, 105 mph in 5th at 6500 rpm.
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Old 05-31-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Well I put a bend in the side stand and gave her a bit more of a lean, and I got tired of giving the extra effort to use the center stand so I took it off and chopped off about 3/4". Very easy mod. Before the rear wheel was about 3.5" off the ground and the center stand is about midway between the wheels so using some basic geometry for every inch off the stand should lower the rear wheel two inches. I'm was shooting for about 1.5" drop at the rear wheel. I'm not sure what it use to be before I lowered the bike. The stand just won't work on a stock Bonnie now. Also each leg needs to be cut in a different point. because of where the return spring attaches, that distance had to stay the same. I'll post a pic later.
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Old 06-01-2007   #9 (permalink)
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Finished and it's once again much easier now to get her up.
Not the best job of grinding the welds smooth, but it'll be covered with grease and dirt anyway .



Removed pieces, shortened by 3/4", cuts weren't perfectly flat, but a bit of grinding fixed that.



Back to normal height.



The piece on the right side has to be removed below the spring bracket, or springs will be too long.



Last minor problem is the tip of the side stand hits the foot lever part of the center stand. Looks like grinding about 3/8" off of the tip of the foot should make it clear again, or possibly bending the side stand more to increase the lean angle.



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Old 06-01-2007   #10 (permalink)
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silly question....how do you push your forks up through the tubes? :???:
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