Triumphrat

Blackjack · 02-12-2007

Thanks Bmetz99 I'll use BARK!

OK - This is early days of development and I am sure it can be refined along the way......

Firstly go through the usual steps of removing the airbox side covers - There are good links on the this site to doing this part - Basically undo all you can and the screws hidden behind the frame use a pair of long nose vise grips - it is not that hard I done it without undoing shocks etc.

I started with some Stainless 55mm Outside Diameter Flexi pipe. The initial plan was to run straight from the Carby in to the airbox, hence the flexi pipe. What I didn't realize was when I went to the local exhaust shop it just happened the bit he picked up out of his off cuts bin had been flared out and had an inside diameter of 55mm - which would of been ideal and I didn't realize this to much later in the piece and of course when I tried to fit it up I used the smaller end and it wouldn't fit.

I used stainless rather than plastic as I didn't want it wobbling around (for several reasons incl, loosening, air flow, wear etc) but in hindsight using a much shorter length then first planned, plastic may be easier on the rubber boot.

As This is probably the weak link. I have inserted the pipe right in until it goes through the airbox semi circle cut out and this gives it support so I reckon it will be ok (see diagram 1 - point 1) - Just don't push it too far as it will rub on the bends on the carby side of the rubber. You can see and feel as you go how far you have inserted it.

As the boot is still in tact it means you don't need additional support for the Carby.

The size of the Flexi Tube is 55mm OD, length is 62mm. You need to insert the tube in to the boot while it is on the carby and mounted to the airbox - You don't need the aircleaner on at this stage. (UniPods are 65mm long)

Next, as the flexi pipe is a very tight fit and the hose clamp restricts getting the flexi pipe in. So I separated a hose clamp and ran it around the boot and rejoined and tightened.

I then put the air cleaner hose clamp over the flexi tube and put the air cleaner on. Then slip the hose clamp on and tighten. Nb: the widest part of the base of the filter should be just inside the step-up on the air box (See Diagram 1 Point 2)

From the left side once fitted it should look something like this

I then repeated on the right side.....

Next I relocated the flasher units to the base of the airbox There are two tabs on the bottom of the box that I ran a very large cable tie through around each flasher ans secured this keeps the flashers well of the base of the airbox. (In case water gets in)

I then bent up a piece of bracket to attach the other electrical thingamajiggy? I used one of the the original screw holes and screws in the top of the airbox to secure the bracket - I bent it in under the bottom of the battery box (again less chance of getting wet) and under the thingamajiggy, so it cant slip down, again a cable tie through the tabs on the thingamajiggy secure this to the bracket.
Photo showing bends and mounting point

Back to the right side - Pretty simple - A straight piece of bracket, again mounted to existing airbox point. I used the existing brake res bracket just turned it the other way and drilled an extra hole in it. I then used a small bit of angle to clear the screw and mount the fuse box. The other bit that runs off the fuse box fits securely in the corner grooves of where the restrictor plate slid in.

I know I should of taken heaps more photos as I was going, but as I was making it up as I went along - I didn't know where I would end up!

Now I have no idea on performance as I have no benchmark to test against - but shirley it has to work? There are no air leaks to report. Now if someone with a NARK where to throw the boots back on to the carby and stick a bit of flexi pipe in them and mount the pods and just see if there is any difference in performance or dyno - that would be good.......

Anyhue If it doesn't work could always go back to stock with restrictor high flow filter and snorkel removed as you haven't butchered anything to try this mod. It may also help if your selling your bike down the track, not everyone may like the pod system?

[ This message was edited by: Blackjack on 2007-02-12 04:42 ]

pabonne · 02-12-2007

Nifty bit of engineering! Looks like a very snug fit... I wonder if the K&N's would give you a little more breathing room? The mini's?

I like the idea of being able to put the whole thing back to stock in a matter of minutes.

Blackjack · 02-12-2007

Not sure on other filter sizes? Someone might be able post some measurements and I could compare.

The fusebox is deceiving, makes it looked cramped but before I put that on it was the same as the other side plenty of breathing room.

I could mount the fuse box a lot lower with out any problem.
There is plenty of room and mounting places - Just wanted to make sure I could get to it if needed without having to pull other bits off.

Panthermark · 02-12-2007

Very interesting indeed!

:upthumb:

sweatmachine · 02-12-2007

what's "stock"?

keef · 02-12-2007

Very good idea indeed, Blackjack. Excellent write up, instructions and photos.
Re-configuring the stock airbox like this really could widen the options for increased airflow/performance whilst keeping the impact on the bike to a minimum.
... link well and trully posted!

Quote:

On 2007-02-12 08:11, sweatmachine wrote:
what's "stock"?

It's what you start off with when you're making soup! :razz:

Loxpump · 02-12-2007

Very nice work. The ability to return to stock is nice. I suppose that's a plus. The K&N cones are a bit bigger. Do you get good airflow, looks a bit snug, better than the original box. You just don't get the storage box.

Blackjack · 02-13-2007

I would think were they sit should give better airflow remembering that the inside space, in front of the battery is a cavity and when they are mounted off the carby the inside is against the frame. so really there should be more surface area drawing air?

In saying that though I admit I am not getting the induction noise I expected - but then that maybe cause I can't here it over the dang pipes!

I was willing to sacrifice the storage space but did play around with the 'condensor? (someone tell me what that thing is called) ' jammed up between the battery box and frame (it fits quite snugly and locating the flasher units on the side of the battery box or even on that existing bracket. Which means you could retain the old filter area for storage. Easy to change at anytime, first priority was to get it running and go ridin'

If I do that I will add some more photos

[ This message was edited by: Blackjack on 2007-02-13 01:10 ]