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Old 02-04-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Hello,

I dropped my bike on it's left side and the gear shifter toe-piece broke off. :evil: I taped it back on, and managed to continue on my ride.

I had to drill a hole through the bit of screw stuck in the lever arm, and then use an "easy-out" to remove it. I've replaced the screw (fortunately the lever arm is ok, because it is quite expensive!) and have some questions:

1) The entire gear shifter seems to be a bit loose. It moves back and forth about 2 - 3 mm on the gear shaft that comes out of the gear box - is this normal?

2) The screw that holds the shifter onto the shaft was quite tight. It didn't seem to go in very easily, though I can't see any evidence of threads being stripped. What does yours look like? See the two pics below (excuse theh blurry photos):





Thanks! and ride safe!!

Zaq in NZ
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Old 02-04-2007   #2 (permalink)
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Every thing seems to look fine, I just took a quick look at mine and , I could feel a little play in the shaft it self.
If that is what your asking. The shifter arm is tight on the
shaft. But, the shaft does have about 2 to 3 mm play
in and out.
Bill
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Old 02-04-2007   #3 (permalink)
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My son dropped Bonnie in the same way.

The side to side "play" you describe on the shaft was a big problem to me. The shifting forks mount on that shaft. That shaft is held to pretty tight tolerances by a pair of circ-clips inside the clutch and transmission cases. When my bike fell on the shifter it "Popped" the circ-clip inside the clutch case out of position. The out of position circ-clip is what allows the shaft increased lateral movement. The problem is when that shaft migrates to the right (viewed as you sit on the bike) beyond the design limits the shifting forks no longer engage, so I could no longer shift until I pulled the shaft back out to the left and into its proper position.

I did manage a "work around" by stacking a couple of washers on the shaft between the clutch case and the shift lever. The washers restrict the shafts movement to the right keeping the shifting forks in alignment.

I hope your damage is not as frustrating a fix as mine but if it stops shifting look at fixing that shaft.
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Old 02-05-2007   #4 (permalink)
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pukka -

It's a relatively simple task to remove the clutch cover and fix the "E" clip (that's what Triumph calls it). About $20.00 for the gasket and an oil change.

I had to repalce a bent shift shaft for a friend who low-sided on the left side.

The way the shaft is held in place some play is normal, however if your's moves enough to move the shift fork away from the drum, well then that's definately ABNORMAL, though easy enough to fix.

I'd recommend fixing the clip before it falls out and ends up somewhere in the bottom end of the motor you don't want it to be!
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Old 02-05-2007   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the replies. It's not actually the shaft that's moving. It's the shifter arm that moves a bit on the shaft. I can't screw it on any tighter.

Everything works fine, but I was just wondering if the small amount of movement is normal. I never really noticed it before, but then, I did not have reason to inspect it closely.

Cheers,
Zaq

[ This message was edited by: zaqtronic on 2007-02-05 12:55 ]
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Old 02-05-2007   #6 (permalink)
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If the arm it self is moving on the shaft.
I would worry about it coming off the shaft.
Looking at your pic's, It looks like you have a lot more room
to tighten it up. I say put a little more muscle into it.
It should be tight on the shaft with no movement at all.
Bill
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Old 02-05-2007   #7 (permalink)
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Zaq -

Get a Torque wrench and tighten to the specified torque setting, I'll have to check when I get home, but it's not a lot.

If you REEF on it too hard and snap the bolt, well then it's more trouble than you started with.

If it's still got "play" after being torqued to spec, then there's somethig else going on.

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Old 02-05-2007   #8 (permalink)
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Torque wrench?????? Just tighten it up so it don't move.
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Old 02-06-2007   #9 (permalink)
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I've just checked mine and there appears to be about 1 mm of sideways float of the shaft in and out of the gearbox and about 1 mm of travel in the up and down direction measured right at the end of the shifter arm.

At first glance it does look like the arm is moving on the shaft but it's not of course. It's just the very small amount of angular rotation of the shaft is not easy to see.

Incidentally, does anyone have an issue with the metal tip at the end of the rubber pad on the shifter arm scuffing up the change pad on your boots.
I've had to wrap some extra rubber softening on mine before it eventually wears a hole in the toe of my boot.
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Old 02-07-2007   #10 (permalink)
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OK... it's sorted now! The shifter arm is nice and tight, and I didn't break anything else!

Bonnevillebilly - I did put a bit of muscle into it (only a bit... really) and the bolt turned freely, so I guess it is going in at a very slight angle, or something similar.

Cyn - You're right about using a torque wrench and tightening up to specification. I'm waiting for an ordered Haynes Manual to arrive, and then I'll get a good quality torque wrench too. I promised myslef I'd use only really good quality tools on this bike. I skimped a bit on tool quality with my last bike. All the tools worked, but the few good ones I borrowed from time to time made every job a pleasure rather than a pain!

Thanks everyone - really appreciate your advice!

Ride safe!

Zaq in NZ
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