Triumphrat

Programr

i'm pretty sure i have an air leak somewhere. i still need to spray some carb cleaner around and see if i can narrow it down. if i can't, i'm not against replacing some replacables.

i figure the intake manifolds and clamps are a given, but what else could i go after? any other likely offenders that i could easily replace? the vacuum caps look fine and are on there tight.

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Alec

TOR's, AI removed, 115/40, 4.25 & 4.5 turns out, 1 shim, stock airbox/paper filter w/ snorkel

CYNCRZR

On an '02 the intake rubbers are the likely suspects, they get hard and crack as I recall.

What are the symptoms ?

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grayghost

I've heard (never had to do it but the method seems sound) that to trace an intake leak;

1. Warm up the bike and have it idling
2. Take a can of Ether (Quick Start from an Auto supply store) and spray a LITTLE around each intake rubber boot. VERY VERY LITTLE PLEASE. Keep the vapour away from the air cleaner or you will defeat the test.
3. If the idle changes (increases) you have a leak. Try to tighten the clamps first and then re-test. If it still does it change the boots.

WARNING. Have a fire extinguisher right beside you when you do this!

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Programr

3.5 turns out still has the engine being racey with a little idle hang on a throttle blip. 3.5 seems like a rich air/fuel mixture for the near stock setup i've got (only change is the TORs, AI removal, and 120 main). When she's on the colder side i'll get lean misfires (maybe from an exhaust valve?), but pretty randomly. bad gas milage, average around 25mpg.

i feel like at idle there is just enough of a leak to give some symptoms in the idle sound/feel, and then when i'm going there is enough of a leak to***** up my mpgs.

she's old enough that the rubbers could stand a change. and i've got to take the whole darn thing apart to do that, so i thought i should go ahead and change whatever else might be troublesome whilst i'm in there..

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Alec

TOR's, AI removed, 115/40, 4.25 & 4.5 turns out, 1 shim, stock airbox/paper filter w/ snorkel

bmetz99

One other thing to consider- what are your valve clearances like? If they've gotten tight, you can get leakage as the engine warms up. This can manifest itself with symptoms that are quite similar to what you describe.

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My Bobber

cwmoss

You can spray wd-40 also to check for leaks and it will not ruin any painted parts.
cwmoss

RedBird

It's been my experience that very much of an air leak really shows up as popping on deceleration with the throttle closed--the popping will come instantly on closing the throttle.

You started this thread with the solution to the problem already in mind so it is hard for us to comment much...I'm wondering how long you have had the '02, and how many miles it has on it. Sounds to me like you need to pull the carb float bowls and have a look to see how much dirt is in there...you may not have an air leak but a fuel problem, IMHO.

Good Luck,
Larry

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Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.