Triumphrat

bung1

Thinking about purchasing my 1st torque wrench, can you guys offer any suggestions on quality, price etc. Any photos would be handy too, if possible. Aout to drop oil in Scrambler and dont want to risk stripping drain plug. Thanks,in advance, Rod

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aint that the truth

black-bonnie

Be sure to get one in the range that covers most the torques you need. Most likely one that gives inch pounds, not foot pounds.

Got mine on sale at Harbor Freight for $20. Even if you pay $50 they it still good.

Like you, I believe in using a torque wrench.

bung1

Thanks Blackbonnie, the issue I have found by personel and others mistakes,is that if not straight away,over time just a little tighter each time they eventually strip out.

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aint that the truth

whoa

I bought a 3/8" drive from Sears. Its digital, which I recommend. Scale also includes Newton Metre and cost around $65

This looks like the one
Sears digital torque wrench

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05 Thruxton

Baltobonneville

I have two Sears Craftsman torque wrenches, the "smaller" (of two) 3/8 inch model for most screws and nuts up to 30NM, and the big 1/2 inch model for axle nuts, etc. Ranges on these are marked in inch-pounds or foot-pounds, and they're also marked in Newton-meters.

Don't know if these are available in Australia. They're about US $75 each here and have a good reputation. Others on this forum probably know of some cheaper alternatives that might be just as good.

Unless you're really heavy-handed, the exact tightness of the oil drain plug is not critical. Snug it up and give it one extra pull to tighten and squeeze the washer, and it should be alright. On the other hand, if you get the torque wrench for more critical parts, you might as well use it on the drain bolt.

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Marty
2005 Bonneville Blue 790cc, AI removed, Staintunes RC, Unifilter, no snorkel, 120/40/Thrux needle/1 shim/3 turns, fly screen, tacho, D9 gauge panel, center stand, Ikon 7610s, Hagon fork springs, gaiters, Pirelli Sport Demons, 3 seats.

black-bonnie

bung1,

This issue came up in a post a few months ago. I deal with torque a lot in my line of work. Overtorquing does weaken threads, especially the two threads at the beginning of the hole that takes most the thread load. It is not evenly distributed as most think it is.

About 50% of friction is just from the head of the screw pushing into the metal it is attaching and about 35% to overcome thread friction, leaving only 15% to produce bolt load.

Then you have to factor in the metal of the screw, the metal of the female threads and gasket compression desired (if one).

Most people using a torque wrench go to the point of torque and then give another umph for good measure. You should not include the extra umph but stop at the desired torque recommended. Also when you're done with the torque wrench, put the tension down to zero again on it so the spring is not compressed in it over a long period of none use time.

merlin

There have been instances reported of the oil pan cracking due to overtorque of the drain bolt. Seems the casting is very thin near the drain bolt. It think a torque wrench on this bolt is critical...

whoa

Good tip, thanks.

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05 Thruxton

bung1

Am now,after a bit of research going to buy a deflecting beam style; Any ideas on brand?

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aint that the truth

Wooly

Bung1,

I bought a deflecting beam wrench after much research and asking people who should know about these types of things.

This is the one I finally purchased and I've been very happy with it, it covers the range up to 160nM which is adequate for our Bonnie's.

W&B torque wrench

They also make a 1/4" drive model that covers the inch/pound ranges and I had previously bought one of these many years ago and it still works well.

Norbar is another good brand to buy in Australia and Sidchrome also market one as well but it is actually made by W&B and is identical to the 160nM model I bought.

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Phil.