Triumphrat

Motolink

How big a job is checking the valve clearence of my bonnie.

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A1 removed, R&N filter, Poloris bellmouth, Thruxton needles, Baffels removed, 19T, Bellacorse Western bars.

Skud

G'day MotoLink...
...If you ain't phased by a bit of spanner work then it's a snack....

.....you simply must get yourself a copy of the Haynes manual which spells it out in detail..

....shows you where you must position the cams...pay very close attention to this cause there are a couple of positions that can fool you...start the motor in the wrong ones and you'll most likely bend the valves....

......there are the 3 variables that you must have correct
1. the line up marks on the cam drive cog and the cam cogs..dots and lines
2. the cam drive has the word top punched into it on the right side ( right as when sitting on the bike)...this of course has to be at the ......yep ..top
3. and the cam lugs on the right ends have to be in the correct position...inclined towards one another at about half way between vertical and horizontal.....see the Haynes manual page 1.18 under Valve clearance check and adjustment, photo 24.6...

if these things are correct the piston should be at the top of its' stroke which is the final check...take the plugs out and as you turn the motor over to get the cams in the right position hold a pencil in the plug hole so you will be aware of the piston being at the top of it's stroke as it pushes the pencil up..
..you will of course need access to a micrometer..I got a good quality digital one from Gibboes for about $60 ..I think repco have got a similar one also..and feeler guages...a star type alen head ..the cam holders are held on by these and are a type of security nut..yep at repco...and a tension wrench to get these babies back in at the right torque....strip 'em and off comes the head to retap if it's one of them under the frame..

....and make sure you stick some rags down the shaft where the cam chain runs or you'll end up with Dazco's drama..i.e. dropping bits down into the guts of the crankcase..

...just take your time and it is quite satisfying to do..

.....cheers...

ps... I found I did not need to drain the engine oil and so remove the alternator cover ..I just lightly flicked the starter button until I got the cams in the right positions...if you get the three things I mentioned in the right spots the line they mention on the alternator that you line up with the join in the crankcase will be in the right spot..

....you will also need the locking pins as described on page 2.15 of the trusty manual.. Section 8. Camshafts, shims and followers. paragraph 6...I made mine out of some mild steel bolts that I just ground down on the bench grinder ..Pic 8.6b...worked fine...it will all become crystal clear as you read this section......

Geoff

all he wanted to do was check the clearance, ya know.
after putting the cams in the right position, just check clearance with a feeler guage.
if an adjustment is needed, it gets a little more complicated
G

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I never wanted to lead, and I never wanted to follow.
I just wanted to ride

ohiorider

Here's a procedure I've used for years to move the cams into the correct position. It eliminates having to remove the alternator cover to manually turn the engine over.

(a) Put the bike on the center stand, or somehow lift the back wheel clear of the ground.
(b) Put the bike in top (5th) gear.
(c) Bump the rear wheel in the direction of travel by hand while watching the cams move into the correct position for checking them. This is easier if you are changing spark plugs at the same time and have them removed prior to bumping the engine.
(d) Once in the correct position, check the clearances with feeler guages.

Checking clearances is a simple procedure that shouldn't take more than 30 minutes if you're comfortable removing the fuel tank and cam cover. Checking clearances is covered in both the Triumph Service Manual and the Haynes Manual.

Bob

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2003 T100 (790cc) Lucifer Org and Silv: 122/42 jets, TORs, 17T, UNI filter, no AI, Polaris bellmouth, Metzeler ME880 tires, Progressive 440 shocks (105/150 springs),11-1126 fork springs, gaiters, MotoTwin low bars, 6024 lamp, htd grips, 12v outlet.

sweatmachine

also, has not been mentioned yet...you have to do it when the engine is cold, and by that I mean it hasn't been fired in at least 24 hours.

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Who says being a tool is a bad thing? I have more use for my tools than I do for most people.


Click for a picture of my slightly modified Bonnie

tcb

I'd also recommend getting one of those cheap impact drivers to get those torx screws of of your cam caps or you'll be twisting off a few torx driver bits trying to unscrew them! :wink:

Skud

ohiorider...
....now that's a ***** good trick...never ceases to amaze me how there is usually an easier way of doing something mechanical..

Skud

....and that my last post got censored...???!!!

Mecchanica

Yeah, the software is pretty persnickety..... for example if you want to call something that goes to the junkyard s.c.r.a.p. and type it in, you get..........s****. I think.

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Triumph old, Triumph new, any Triumph will do.

RedBird

Ask us what time it is and we will probably tell you how to build a watch. :-D

Larry

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Larry
2003 T-100 (790cc), NARK, NH Togas, 8100 rpm rev limiter, 158 main jets, 42 pilot jets (less than 1 turn out on pilot screws), stock needles--no shims. 13 A/F ratio from 1100 rpm to 4000 rpm; 12 A/F ratio from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm; 13 A/F from 6000 rpm to 8100 rpm.:D
2007 Tiger 1050--White:D--SW-Motech crashbars, Skidmarx rear hugger/chain guard, Calsci +7 windscreen.