Triumphrat

ThruxArt · 09-20-2006

Hello everyone, I know the relocating Thruxton clip ons above the triple clamp has been discussed several (dozen) times on this forum but I'm still unclear as to how far I can slide my tubes up. I've read 17-20 mm but I've also read 1 1/8 inches (approx 28mm) I have stock tubes and springs and would like the top of my forks to be flush with my clip ons, basically, sliding my tubes 25mm. Is this possible without the fender hitting the rectifier? What happens if it does hit? I hear "disaster" but how different is that from a fork internally bottoming out? and has anyone relocated their rectifier to avoid this?

Looking forward to my new weekend project and any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Art.

sweatmachine · 09-20-2006

I relocated my horn under the gas tank to avoid it hitting my fender, see the thread in this forum called "horn under tank."

ThruxArt · 09-20-2006

Thanks, Sweatmachine, I have the same horn so that's a god tip. How far did you slide up your fork tubes when the fender started hitting the horn?
Art.

kliff · 09-20-2006

Quote:

On 2006-09-20 11:24, ThruxArt wrote:
Hello everyone, I know the relocating Thruxton clip ons above the triple clamp has been discussed several (dozen) times on this forum but I'm still unclear as to how far I can slide my tubes up. I've read 17-20 mm but I've also read 1 1/8 inches (approx 28mm) I have stock tubes and springs and would like the top of my forks to be flush with my clip ons, basically, sliding my tubes 25mm. Is this possible without the fender hitting the rectifier? What happens if it does hit? I hear "disaster" but how different is that from a fork internally bottoming out? and has anyone relocated their rectifier to avoid this?

Looking forward to my new weekend project and any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Art.

The easiest way to find out the absolute maximum, is to put the bike on a lift, with both wheels off the ground, remove both fork caps to releive any and all spring tension on the lower legs. Then care fully, remember there is still oil in those forks, push up on the wheel until it "bottoms."
At that point, have a helper measure any and all obstacles that the fender comes close to...rectifier, frame down tubes, etc.....your MINIMUM clearance figure PLUS 1/4" is about how much you can safely drop the tubes.

Now while you have help, loosen the clamp bolts and move the forks up....same procedure, 'cept this time the helper is measuring the fork leg protruding from the top clamp, and cinching things down as you get where you wanna be.

Now, with the forks lowerred, and even, side to side, shove 'em back to bottom again, and S-L-O-W-L-Y turn the forks right to left, checking clearances.....always allow at least a 1/4"...I personally like 1/2" clearance MINIMUM, as things FLEX on a motorcycle, and too little clearance, and a flexed front tube from a 100mph brake application can spell didaster if everything goes wrong.

Then reassemble......This is all, hypothetical advice on how one MIGHT check clearances...I'd never recommend modifying any motorcycles suspension....to do so can be dangerous...

[ This message was edited by: kliff on 2006-09-20 12:50 ]

sweatmachine · 09-20-2006

not very much, I had only slid them up a little over 1/2'' when I heard it make a weird bumping/banging noise, then I realized it was the horn hitting the fender.

nycthrux · 09-20-2006

hmmm. I slid my forks up flush with the top mouunted clip-ons and have had absolutely no clearance issues. thruxart, I believe you should be fine doing this to your thruxton. I think the bonnie and t100 have different issues because of different fork angle and wheel size?

sweatmachine · 09-20-2006

the bonnie fork angle is the same, it is spec'd different because of longer rear shocks and a smaller front wheel.

My roadblaster horn stuck out about an inch futher than stock.

ThruxArt · 09-20-2006

Thanks, Kliff, I'll try that and hopefully I can go flush like nycthrux did.

I guess I should mention that I already lowered the rear end by using Bonneville length Hagon Nitros to accommodate my 30" inseam. I seem to remember reading that a few people are running this combo, hopefully I can too.

Thanks,
Art.

kliff · 09-20-2006

Quote:

On 2006-09-20 14:21, ThruxArt wrote:
Thanks, Kliff, I'll try that and hopefully I can go flush like nycthrux did.

I guess I should mention that I already lowered the rear end by using Bonneville length Hagon Nitros to accommodate my 30" inseam. I seem to remember reading that a few people are running this combo, hopefully I can too.

Thanks,
Art.

I've read the same thing, and I'm sure you can.

Just kinda threw all that dribble out for anyone that might wanna use it....it works on about 99% of bikes I've ever dealt with, that use a standard telescopic front end....Hondas, Triumphs, H-D's....mind you, it is only for clearance checking, not for permanent modification.... I'd NEVER recommend that to anyone....(cough, cough)

nycthrux · 09-20-2006

Quote:

the bonnie fork angle is the same, it is spec'd different because of longer rear shocks and a smaller front wheel.

Quote:

The small differences in the wheelbase (10mm) and the rake/trail (1deg/13mm) would more likely be from the triple trees.

quoted from this cafe frame thread

Am I missing something?