Triumphrat

Berta · 09-03-2006, 08:51 AM

Oil change 101. I have always had bikes that had different transmission fluid and engine oil. Does the T100 have transission fluid, or does the oil do everything? Also, the manual recommends synthetic 10 w 40 oil. Is this right for weather / temperature changes - I have always used 20 /50 in the summer, and 10 / 40 in the winter. Finally, what brand of oil is considered the best to use.

Thanks - just want to make sure I don't mess anything up.

Bob

:???:

kliff · 09-03-2006, 09:05 AM

I've used 15w50 Mobil1 "auto" oil in everything, bikewise, I've owned, year round for the past 8 years, and have had no problems whatsoever.

Temperatures being different from Del to Ga, a lighter oil might be better for winter.....

Most bikes, nowadays, combine engine and tranny lubricants.....H-D is one of the few that still use separate lubricants....

rodburner · 09-03-2006, 10:31 AM

I use Mobil one 20/50 V-twin oil year round. That 20 in 20/50 is winter temp. viscosity.I don`t ride in 20 degree temps,but my air/oil cooled Bonnie loves the 50 part. A 0,5,or 10w might be reqired for your car to start on a really cold day,but I don`t think my bike would care. IMO. And as mentioned already,a common crank and tranny.

Normandy · 09-03-2006, 11:02 AM

A 10 - 20 degree temp change is a lot for us but is insignificant to an engine.

Panthermark · 09-03-2006, 01:08 PM

I also use Mobil 1 v-twin. There is also some Mobil 1 four stroke dino that can be mixed in.

I avoid automotive oil due to the lubricants that it has.

kliff · 09-03-2006, 03:47 PM

Quote:

On 2006-09-03 11:08, Panthermark wrote:
I also use Mobil 1 v-twin. There is also some Mobil 1 four stroke dino that can be mixed in.

I avoid automotive oil due to the lubricants that it has.

The only auto oils to avoid are "energy conserving," 15w50 Mobil1 is NOT in that category... besides the packaging and price, about 200 ppm's of phosphorus is the main difference between the "Gold Cap" 15w50 auto, and the 20w50 M/C specific....that and the fact that the 15 matches the low specific required by triumph...the 20w50 M/C oil doesn't.

rodburner · 09-03-2006, 05:19 PM

Yes,the 20/50 is thicker than Triumph calls for,but its JASO MA rated,which the car oils are not. If it is rated to that,I`d be willing to put it on my list of acceptable oils for my bike. :???:

KF6VGZ · 09-03-2006, 06:10 PM

I ordered this for the Bonnie

357Bob · 09-03-2006, 10:36 PM

What is a KF6VGZ?
Is that like my KM5GZ?

merlin · 09-03-2006, 11:33 PM

You've had a number of replies, but let me re-address your basic question:
The motor, transmission and - most critically, the clutch all share the same lubrication system, the same oil. Its one large, common system. this is possible because in unit construction, you'll see that the tranny an integrat part of the engine case - its all one unit, not separate like HD's.
The most finicky part of this system is the clutch which has very fussy taste about the kind of oil it likes. The 'official' Triumph stuff is the right stuff, spot on, no complaints except PRICE. So it is on price alone that many have found alternatives. A really bad alternative oil will have the clutch slipping because of certain addatives. Some pretty good alternatives have the clutch locking up fine, but the tranny feels bit clunky. Some have found perfect alternatives. Read everyone's recommendation but basically, you're on your own, trying to save a few bucks over the triumph liquid gold. The triumph stuff is supposed to go 6000 miles, which, few people do, I change at 5000. So how often you need to do this (min once a year, miles or not) might be a factor in whether you bother with alternatives.
Just thought I'd restate the basic issue.