Triumphrat

Ramjet · 08-19-2006

I dont like them.

But for free, you can't beat them. They are a simple 2" angle, some gussests for looks, some 7/8" thick walled conduit, and some 7/16"-20 all-thread.

Oh and some old Harley pegs that I got from the back room at California Performance Iron in Vallejo, CA. One of the custom chopper builders rummaged around in his junk pile and found me a set. The clevis extensions are pretty beat up and the chrome is flaking off but if I end up keeping this setup, I will have them re-chromed. The end of the pegs have a harley logo but I am going to change the pegs anyway.

Here are some images that sort of explain themselves. The first pic is how I received the pegs. The last pic show the peg folded up. I aligned the folded pegs to be paralell to the headers for asthetics.

Click to enlarge:

-Todd

vol245 · 08-19-2006

Are they comfortable?

bgaz · 08-19-2006

Wont you melt your shoes/boots on the pipes?

Brett

doctorjay · 08-19-2006

I'm interested in this modification...Great Bay has highway pegs for >200 bucks...No way I'm paying that for pegs....Can you post a easy to follow guide on how to maks these...or if you don't like them...PM me.

Ramjet · 08-19-2006

John,

No, they are not comfortable enough for my stubby legs. I am 5'9" on a good day. It might be comfortable for someone taller than me. On long rides, my legs cramp up on the stock pegs so these will be a good way to safely stretch my legs and not put the bike out of balance at freeway speeds. However, I need them about 1.5" closer to me to leave my feet on them for any legnth of time. I only made these like this because it was all made from junk parts I had. If I were to do it again, I would bend a mustache bar and use store bought clevises. Today my tubing bender is, well, out of town.

Brett,

No, my boots and ankles are actually a safe distance. The total width from end to end is 29" and by boots are well clear of hot pipes.

Doc,

I could post a step byb step, but if you know how to weld, then you should be able to figure it out by the pictures. The thing is, I bodged it together with stuff laying around my garage. Any measurements for width will completely depend on what kind of clevis mounts you have to start with.

A couple of points that will make any fabrication of highway pegs on a Bonnie go well:

1. A piece pf 2" angle about 2-1/4" long is a perfect base. You can drill to match the holes in the stock cradle stiffner plate (see second picture above).

2. 28" to 30" is a safe width for header clearance but the wider it is, the goofier it looks.

I can answer any specific questions. I can even post CAD drawings if you like but, again, mine is going to be different than anyone elses unless they can find some Sportster pegs.

-Todd

[ This message was edited by: Ramjet on 2006-08-19 18:41 ]

bonnevillebilly · 08-19-2006

Ramjet
Nice job from junk laying around.
I am STILL!!!!!! waiting for my pegs to arrive.
I have my bar done and mounted on the bike.
I also found mounting them up front of the down tubes
way to far away. I mounted mine to the engine mount
through bolt. They are just right with my foot resting on
them and my knees slightly bent.
I am very happy with mine. I hope my pegs will arrive on
Monday. As soon as I have them mounted on the bar
I will shear some pic's.
Bill

vol245 · 08-19-2006

I am 6' with a 33" inseam. A long time ago I owned a 1977 Suzuki GS750 and I put case savers on it. The case savers came with foot rests that bolted onto them. I put them on and never could get comfortable using them for more than about 5 minutes. They were too far away.

I felt I was slouching too much with the stock handlebars on the T100 so I put M bars on it. It is not very comfortable to me with the pegs in the stock locations while using the M bars. I use the passenger pegs whenever the traffic situation allows. I'd like rear-sets, but am not going to spend $400 on them.

I have a feeling if I put the stock handlebars back on with highway bars that the highway bars would either be too close or too far. They need some adjustability to these things.

I really only use my bike for commuting (33 miles each way) so I'm fine with it as it is. I have gone 160 miles in a day before on it and found it pretty darn uncomfortable. That trip was with the stock handlebars and I've done it 3 times. Oh well, it's not a Gold Wing.

Ramjet · 08-19-2006

John,

I commute 100 miles a day on mine. I need to figure something out. My numb hands are worse than my stiff knees.

Billy,

It's time for me to say, "DOH!" I did not even think about using the lower motor mount. Now that you mention it, I notice it is a through bolt. ACK! That is the perfect location and these harley clevises are probably long enough to just stick out from there. Heck, I could do this without welding anything.

Do you know what size bolt is in the lower mount? is there any rubber in the thru hole?

-Todd

bonnevillebilly · 08-19-2006

I used a 9/16" hole. I don't know the metric size of the
bolt , but it measures about 1/2". It is a clean shot through
no rubber. Mine had a bit over a 1/4" extra thread.
Wait to you see the bar I made . 3/4" Ø stainless steel bar
and I had the clevis machined from 1" Ø s.s. bar.
Then welded a couple of 10 ga. s.s mounting plates on.
I polished them up to look as good as chrome , if not better.
I hope to have some pic's by Monday night.
Bill

Bryan · 08-19-2006

Really nice job on those pegs Todd. I love that home made stuff. They look nice and clean.