Triumphrat

stu

I removed the plate from the airbox today, and it seemed to me the motor ran rougher than before. Anyone else able to comment who did the same mod? Running Unifilter, TORs, 130 main, 42 pilot, no shims.
No high speed roads around here, but I checked 40-75mph time in 5th gear and found no diff with the baffle out.I thought 2nd gear acceln might have improved but have no data to back it up.

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Stu


TORs, NARK, thruxton needles, 140mains.40 pilots 2.75 turns out, procom igniter, 17T

merlin

Stock mufflers, removed first baffle
No restrictor plate, no snorkel
127.5
42
2 turns
Thurx needles, one shim.
Very happy.

"Rough" - try syncing the carbs. Makes a big difference - is the icing on the cake. You'll find you need to do this rather frequently, with any setup and its certainly needed when you do any major change.

05Truxter

on syching the carbs. Lets just say that I had a vacuum gage (I don't). How would I adjust the carbs to get the same amount of vacuum - as in, what screws do you need to turn.

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'05 Thruxton, Epco, RaceTech fork springs & cartridge emulators, YSS Shocks, Unifilter, snorkel out, 130 mains, 40 pilot, 1 shim, pilot screw 3 turns, turtle wax

DickBender

There is a screw between the carbs on the shaft that connect the 2 butterfiles adjust it to synch.

Darcy

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-Darcy-
BIR #174


"My eyes.....the goggles do nothing!"

Rainier Wolfcastle

steelcap

Check out this thread clickity click

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BIR#160

merlin

What Darcy said... One of the carbs is static, not to be adjusted. There is a screw between the carbs that you'd turn to match the other carb to the static carb. Then, when both are in sync you use the idle adjust knob (that you've probably fiddled with already) to raise or lower the idle to.. what... 1100 rpm? or 1000. I don't have a tac, do it by ear. Just don't set it too low, the oil pump wants a little speed at idle to provide pressure.
The idle adj knob is a black knob - no tool needed - on the left side. The carb sync adjust screw is mounted between the carbs, requires that a philips head screw bit be vertical, pointed down to turn the screw - get it? You need to devise a philips bit and a rachet or wrench to get in there. Tiny turns is all thats needed.

stu

My carbs are well synched, I have a vacuum gauge set up.
I put the restrictor plate back in today, WHAT a hell of a job, not like taking it off.FInally, since its the black hole of calcutta inside, I painted the tabs on the baffle white, and the groove in the endplate yellow. That was the only way I could get it together, with much brute force as the lugs on the frame prevent much lateral movement. After getting it all together the bike wouldn't start so I spent half an hour checking fuses, loose wires etc. before I realised the Unifilter was in backwards, blocking 100% of the air flow .DUH.
Interestingly, with the restrictor out, I could screw the mixture screws all the way in and the bike would idle and pick up OK. With the baffle in it wouldn't start well until I backed them off 1.5 tuns again. THis seems opposite to what I would expect.

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Stu


TORs, NARK, thruxton needles, 140mains.40 pilots 2.75 turns out, procom igniter, 17T

Panthermark

Uni-Filter
Polaris bellmouth
No restrictor plate
1 shim on each needle


I like it!

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Jealousy is a sickness.....get well soon....

Mark

http://www.triumphrat.net/photogalle...m793/album755/

FattRat

My restrictor plate was already removed when I bought the bike with it's 800 miles. My buddy told me that he got to the airbox to remove the restrictor plate by first removing the rear wheel (and fender?). He said it was no easy task.

How was the bike running?

130 mains
42 pilots
regular needles w/ 1 shim
K&N air filter
D&D's

Ran pretty good! 61.0 hp & 48.9 torque

I have since gone to 125 mains with my Thruxton needles, NH bellmouth, and a very free-flowing exhaust. I can't tell ya what kind of horsepower it's putting out, but it's no slouch.

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amanger

As I had the day off yesterday and was bored,I decided too reinstall the restricter plate and 120 mains.While there may have been very slight gains below 3500 rpm the difference at higher rpm was amazing.It felt like I had to wait for the bike to rev out.
So back out came the restricter with the 120 mains,somewhat of an improvment.
Going back to my origional setup with 128 mains is much better crack open the throttle and it revs to the limiter with no hesitation and gets there in no time at all.
The more I read other posts and the jenks manual,the more confused I get.
I sticking with what feels good.

Staintunes (baffles out)
K&N
Polaris Bellmouth with enlarged hole (thanks Geoff)
Restricter out
Thruxton Needles 1 shim
128 mains and 40 pilots
3 1/4 turns on pilot mixtures

Oh and it took 1 hr to get that b%#ch of a restricter back in.Save yourself the trouble and leave it out!!

:hammer: :hammer:

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07 865 Silver Bonnie....Bobbed Guards, Tacho, Grab Rail, Lucas Tail light, Mini Blinkers, Dart Screen, LSL Sport Bars, 1" Longer Hagons, 10mm Raised Forks, K&N Pods, Staintunes, 140/40 3 1/2 turns + 1 shim......etc....etc...