Triumphrat

stu · 08-03-2006

I note some members have been able to check their set ups by Dyno testing, and wondered how much they are getting charged. The only shop near me is $250/hr. I wanted to evaluate my TOR's versus Bub systems, and evaluate jet sizes, thruxton needles, shims etc. but I figure taking off the carb bowls several times to change mains and pilots, plus an hour to swap exhaust systems is prohibitively costlysince you pay for all time, not just when the dyno is running.. Reading the recent thread on rejetting tips it was concerning that to get good dyno results the bike was running a 9 or 10:1 mixture, whats that in MPG-30-35?
Today I'm running TORs in place of Bubs and the only differences I noted were I had to increase idle speed setting, and it seems a bit slower off the mark, but I don't know how much the noise factor affects your perception of power. Certainlty the Bubs look a hell of a lot nicer.
Stu

Shorty · 08-03-2006

Stu...I paid $45 for my last run which included the graph and 6 pages of data taken at 280 different data points over the bikes RPM range. The A/F ratio was anywhere between 9.5 to 11.9 during the run.

Shorty

PS: Sorry but forgot to answer your other question. I get 43 mpg around town / highway driving mix. Best ever was 56 mpg on the highway with the infamous "19-tooth sprocket".

[ This message was edited by: Shorty on 2006-08-03 09:33 ]

jojje1963 · 08-03-2006

Way too rich, 13 gives you the most power.
I charge $100 /hour, but the ride to Sweden might cost a little too much

Shorty · 08-03-2006

jojje...that's what the Technician said. I'm going back this weekend for another dyno after re-jetting. I've got 115's and 118's to play with (replacing the 120's presently installed). What do you suggest I should go with?

Shorty

jojje1963 · 08-03-2006

Try 115.
I guess you have Thruxton needles? And maybe the snorkel in place? I have had good luck with stock needles and pilots, 130-135 and no snorkel.
Also make sure your filter is clean and dry

Shorty · 08-03-2006

Actually jojje, I do have Thruxton needles with 3-shims but the snorkel is removed and I have a Polaris bellmouth installed. Also the restrictor plate is removed. I have no clue to why I'm still running rich. Uni filter was just cleaned a few weeks ago and I installed new plugs before the run. Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate your thoughts on this.

Shorty

jojje1963 · 08-03-2006

Never used the Thrux needles myself but I know you must use smaller jets with them than with stock needles. First make sure the Uni isn't over oiled, then put in the 115 and run it on the Dyno. If it's still rich remove a shim or two (I never needed to shim the stock needles). It's easiest if you can do that while on the Dyno

DickBender · 08-03-2006

Shorty,
Take the shims out you won't need any at all even with a NARK. Try the 115s as well.

Stu 200 tell him he's dreamin, thats way to much money.
I pay $70 Aussie for 3 runs no time limit and they let me do any jet changes. mpg is more about how you ride than jetting.

Darcy

Shorty · 08-03-2006

Thanks jojje. I'll put in the 115's and see how it goes. If I don't see an improvement I'll do like you suggested with the shims or probably go back to the stock needles.
Thanks again.

Shorty

PS: Thanks for the input Darcy. I didn't see your response before I submitted the post. Looks like 115 is definitely the most popular number (others have suggested the same).

Stu...they charge $230 around here for mapping a Fuel injected bike and programming the computer. Maybe the dealer you took it to doesn't know your bike has carbs :-D

[ This message was edited by: Shorty on 2006-08-03 15:59 ]

Geoff · 08-03-2006

I have had some folks with know-how suggest to me that if you can leave the air baffle in, thrux needles no shims, it runs pretty strong.
but if you need more than that, do away with the air box as it is very difficult to get the tune correct, this may be what you are experiencing. like they say, maybe it is time for the "dark side"
Geof