Triumphrat

FFMCPres · 07-11-2006

Hey guys,

I had originally written this as a reply to the question about the Ma's relocation brackets and signals, but got to thinking it might be something good to share with the rest of the class (as my 4th grade teacher was so fond of saying). So here it is in its copied/pasted glory:

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A quick tech note from the forum's telephone man:

A cold solder is a much better connection than pulling out your soldering iron and making a hot one. More dielectrically "pure," if you will. You can now find "butt splice" connectors that are jell-filled to repel the insidious water, or use the correct diameter shrink wrap over a dry connector to make it weather resistant. Notice I did not say weather PROOF!

Oh, and one other thing...when you crimp the cold solder connectors together: A) Use the right tool~a good one is only about $20, and B) Do NOT "gorilla" the connector! Give it a firm crimp, but not so much that you split the plastic insulation or cut through the copper inside. Those will be the causes of 95% of splice failures. I'm allowing 5% for structural defects in the connector and that's being really generous.

Glad I can finally pass on something useful that I learned on my tedious job...

~R

PS: If you must hot solder, and sometimes you will, it is very important to let the splice cool by itself! Blowing on it appears to "set" the goober of solder quicker, but letting it cool slowly lessens the chance for cracks and ultimate splice failure.

bennybmn · 07-12-2006

A couple questions and one extra suggestion..

First the suggestion: Use dielectric grease on all your connectors!!

Questions. Where can you get these connectors? I've seen the ones specifically for phone use (my friend has some, and the crimping tool), but what about something larger gauge, like for automotive wiring?

Also, don't forget to heat shrink those hot soldered connections

FFMCPres · 07-12-2006

Benny,

Agreed on the grease when using dry plug-type connectors (male/female spades or bullets). Thanks for the catch! I have to quit posting latenight and do it when I'm a little more coherant.

I, uh, sometimes procure connectors for as big as 18 ga from...uh...a local flea market, yeah, that's it. (wink wink) That accomodates most wiring on vehicles. Anything else I need I hit the stores:

Grainger and Newark Electronics were always good for the odd stuff, but believe it or not I saw some dry connectors built into heatshrink at our local Advance Auto Parts store last week. They weren't cheap, but why cut corners on something that could leave ya stranded?

I love heat shrink! Thing is, that the company I work for did a study on corrosion and found that a lot of weatherproofing we did years ago actually sped up the rot. They caution us now to make it weather-resistant but to not do anything that will trap water once it gets in. We need to take into consideration moisture that forms internally with temperature changes, too. Interesting line to walk.

Some of the jell in the stuff I use at work is like a very soft, kind of sticky silicone; the other, more common type is like a hardcore vaseline. The idea behind it is to push away moisture as it crimps, and leave a barrier between the elements and the raw metal. Maybe you can concoct your own type of connector for your specific application if you can't find anything at either of those places I mentioned, and pack it with your favorite goo.

Let me know how it goes for ya!

~Randy

Raven · 07-12-2006

I have a contrary opinion on the cold vs hot soldering. They both work under appropriate conditions but a hot solder connection using tin/lead solder is what we use in the aerospace business (20g acceleration, long-term thermal cycling at extreme temperatures, radiation survivability). The products we send up have to last for years without the possibility of repairs.

Granted, our bikes probably won't see environmental stresses like that but constant vibration from the engine and road, moisture, and thermal cycling (such as it is) will play havoc with most conventional electrical connections. Given the choice, for me there is no choice.

Hot soldering may not be as easy as a crimp-type connector but when you get it right, they never come loose and they are way more reliable. And, I too would use the shrink wrap tubing. It's the best way to finish off the job.

FFMCPres · 07-13-2006

How can I argue with a rocket scientist?!?

:-D

The evil alchemist that got me into electronics years ago taught me to solder (heat the wire, not the solder) and it wasn't until I began to be brainwashed by my company that I began using coldies. The mother ship's point, and I can buy into it, is that there is only the wire pressed together with no extra "element". They probably have to take into consideration too, that most of the more recent hires are not artists...just bodies carefully chosen because they seem more likely to willingly drink the red Kool-Aid than the rest of us!

bennybmn · 07-14-2006

I gotta work on my "heat the wire, not the solder" technique. I tend to tin the tip of my iron, then paint it on. So far so good.

As for the goo thing. One thing I have tried (but often forget to do) is smear some liquid electrical tape on the joint. then slip the heat shrink over top.It ends up squeezing the goo out the ends. You know it's sealed then!

Raven · 07-15-2006

I should add one last note: always use an appropriate flux when soldering. For electrical connections I use a rosin-core flux. It scrubs the surfaces and helps the solder flow throughout the joint smoothly and quickly, and by doing so you can get the iron off the wire sooner.

dazco · 07-15-2006

I spend a huge part of my day 5 days a week with a soldering iron in my hand and have for years. If as was mentioned you heat the wire first, (teflon jacket sure helps!) and as someone else said "paint it on", your chances of the connection NOT lasting thru 50 lifetimes is miniscule. Ok, an exageration, but if done right theres no need for fussing. And cover with heat shrink and your good darn near forever. You'll see the wire fracture before the joint goes south. Most failures are due to sloppiness anyways. Dirty tip, dirty wire, big globs of solder thats not held steady as it cures. Common sense and care will do a fine job. Clean wire and tip, heat the wire, use minimal solder, heat shrink. All the time and weather in the world won't faze it. Heck, i'm often lazy and don't follow my own advice all the time, yet my work has lasted years both at work and personal stuff. It's all about common sense and a little understanding about soldering. Just MO.

dazco · 07-15-2006

hey raven......got any suggestions for paste flux other than Kester? Thats all i can find around here and the smell of kester's formula makes me puke ! Thier old formula was fine but they changed it.