Copper exhaust crush washers - which way do the tabs go? - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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Copper exhaust crush washers - which way do the tabs go?

These copper crush washers are for an Arrow 2-to-1 exhaust on a 2012 Scrambler. See those little tabs on the sides? They are flush on one side. I assume they go up against the engine but they will fit either way. Does anybody know for sure which way they go?



Also, what's the best seal to use on these?

Permatex Ultra Copper (which stays flexible):
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...60&cagpspn=pla

Or, maybe Wurth Exhaust Assembly Paste (which hardens stronger):
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...%20gram%20tube

Thanks!

Current: 2012 Scrambler, Bitubo forks, YSS shocks, Arrow 2-to-1, 33mm DB killer, TTP tune #4, Breathe, DNA filter; O2, AI, Airbox baffle, EVAP removed, Up-N-Over, Pivot Pegs, Ventura rack.

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Last edited by tvscum; 12-25-2012 at 02:06 AM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 11:07 AM
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Just a guess

I would imagine the tab side would go toward the motor, probably just a feature to hold the gasket in place while mounting the exhaust. I have always used the after market cheapo kind, never seen a tab on any I have used. I have never used any sealant either, just bolt them down good and tight and no leaks so far......
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 11:30 AM
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+1, the tabs are there to hold the gaskets in place until you attach the headers. They work best if they are to the head side.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 11:56 AM
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What Easy said. I put a little sealent on the head side to help hold them in place.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvscum View Post
Also, what's the best seal to use on these?
You don't use any sealant on the copper washers, since that is the job that they do themselves. But if you mean sealant for the rest of the sytem I would go for the semi-flexible one.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 09:59 PM
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Tabs and the like

I never bothered too much @ the tabs. Doesnt mention in the manual might be a manu feature.
The manual says to put a smear of silicon on the washer between it and head. This may just be for positioning and holding in situ. If it was necessary for actual sealing then they would say to put it on both sides of the crush washer!
As the other postee said sealant shouldnt be necessary, if mating surfaces are clean. Mine dont leak and i didnt use sealant.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 11:23 PM
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A little high-temp RTV won't hurt anything.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info! I put it back together using sealant on all joints and a small amount on the copper gasket. Unfortunately, I am still getting some popping on decel.

Current: 2012 Scrambler, Bitubo forks, YSS shocks, Arrow 2-to-1, 33mm DB killer, TTP tune #4, Breathe, DNA filter; O2, AI, Airbox baffle, EVAP removed, Up-N-Over, Pivot Pegs, Ventura rack.

Past: '83 Honda XR500; '84 Honda XL600; '86 Yamaha XT350
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 03:09 AM
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Let them go through a few heat cycles, probably 3 or 4 should do it. Then use a torque wrench to keep an even load on the gasket.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 04:46 AM
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Quote:
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Unfortunately, I am still getting some popping on decel.
Because of the presence of the Air Injection device this popping is always present but a freer after-market exhaust makes it worse. AI removal usually stops it.

With carbs, tweaking the idle mixture screws a little to richen the lower end removes most of it. With injection, a proper re-map does it, however the Factory exhaust maps won't be set for a richer low end mixture for legal emission reasons, so using those you're stuck with it.
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